December 2018 I was treated to a near perfect run of a main range SK, this is not to say that it was easy going or not difficult but conditions were near on perfect. I had clear skies and sunshine most of the way, one brief rain spell and a bit of clag along Marchant ridge. Still under these great conditions I arrived to the glory of Kaitoki completely broken and forever in love with the epicness that is the Tararua main range.
As I sat shivering in my mates car waiting for a ride back to civilization I was already thinking about a return and knew that although at some point I should try out the tarn and valleys traverses, I had to come back to the main range again first but that time I wouldn’t be shivering in a car in kaitoki, I’d be returning the same way I’d come back to Putara.
Over the next year I had a near perfect build up, getting in plenty of vert and rugged terrain, the two standout highlights being the Northburn miler and even more so the reasonably new race DU135 in Australia (if you love vert, gnarly trail and epicness this is a MUST do event!!!) By July the plan was already locked in place and ferry tickets were booked for the end of December with a plan to make a boys trip away out of it with my Son Hayden coming along for the Journey and of course my best mate in the world Lucy who plays a part in almost every adventure I do.
Finally the time to go had arrived and with a car full of gear and xmas lamb sandwiches the three of us headed North to windy Wellington and more importantly the Mighty Tararua Ranges, excitement was at a all time high!!!!
I put a call out for a short notice lunch time beer and was lucky to get a bite from local runner Marta who gave me some much appreciated Intel on recent conditions in the ranges before I continued north. All that was left to do was get some KFC (my compulsory pre big mission meal) and to park up at the trail head!!!!
The plan was to start in the morning after a good sleep in the car but already the mountain gods were playing their devilish tricks and the car got rocked so much by wind through the night that not much sleep was had and I started off knowing it probably wasn’t going to be the same conditions as last year….. Haha if only I had known then how right I was; but then probably was better I didn’t!!!
The first wee bit I took easy with Hayden and Lucy to help get Lucy over the bridges as they were staying at Herapai hut for the two nights I would be adventuring but once past the second bridge I slipped into my own easy pace leaving Hayden to be pulled up by a frantic pup, desperate not to be left behind.
After filling up my water at the hut I carried on up into ever thickening cloud as I reached the top and was happy to make the crossing to west peak with no navigational issues even with near no visibility.
Carrying along from west peak the jacket soon came out as misty cloud became drizzle which very soon became stinging hail, this is summertime right???? Haha try telling the mountain gods that!!!
All this just added to the adventure and with high spirits I reached Dundas and grinned as I enjoyed pushing through the elements.
Here is where I made my first minor navigational error and started dropping down a wrong spur or ridge but luckily quickly realized my error and climbed back up to drop down correctly to Brockett rocks.
The rain and hail continued until about Arete but then stopped and just as I reached the point where the route becomes marked trail the clouds started opening up to clear sky and sunshine, things were looking up!!!!!
Things went along pretty sweet to Drac Biv, a slight niggle started in my right calf but felt like nothing to worry about. Filled up on more water at the big and carried onwards.
Missed the slight turn and almost ended up on top of Kelleher but realized my mistake and corrected course and carried on sweetly again for more water at Andersons memorial hut.
The route was interesting as usual along to Maungahuka as darkness got close and head torch was on for the first time as I headed for the famous steel ladder section.
It was along this part that the wind really got breezy again and I had to put some thermal bottoms on too, very unusual for me!!!!
The ropes and ladder section went surprisingly well and I was soon mincing my way along the tops again towards bridge peak. It was somewhere along here that my calf niggle became a painful sprain of some sort and needed strong massage therapy a few time to keep moving well, also as my feet had been soaked from the start right along I could feel blisters forming on the balls of my feet, something that I never ever get but was luckily ready for, always expect the unexpected!!!!! On the happy side I still had zero chaffing which is usually my constant companion..
Kime hut was just a quick water refill in the dark and carry onwards once again. Things carried on more the same as I made Alpha hut and onwards towards Marchant ridge. It was around this point that my resolve to do full mission was being severely tested and I felt if a car had been at Kaitoki headed for Putara I wouldn’t be able to stop myself flagging a ride; I was very cold, tired and sore and I hadn’t even got to the turn around point yet, in fact the carpark of glory still seemed a lifetime away, how was I supposed to get there and then do the reverse of all I had just done??? Regardless I still had to get to Kaitoki so I carried on quite ready to cry myself a little pity party into the now rising sun.
Day #2!!!!
Coming down the last bit to Kaitoke I saw a fellow runner heading up, pretty sure she did a KS, she was traveling well and seemed the polar opposite to how I felt, but somehow seeing someone else out amongst it helped to rebuild my resolve to carry onwards. I were however strongly considering returning via the valleys, I had convinced myself this to be the smart option!!! I checked the forecast when I could and there was some rain coming but only 50k winds so I couldn’t really keep fooling myself that the main range wasn’t on the cards, 50k winds are a breeze!!!!
I’m not sure how but at the last moment as the carpark of glory came onto view I decided a very fast turn around and get going along the main ridge was the only option I should take so a quick selfie with the sign was had and I instantly started moving (very slowly) back the way I had come. It was clear skies and a nice sunny morning so was thankfully of shade and had my first 5min power nap less than a k into my return.
Refilling my water at a good side stream I had past about 1.5ks from the end I was happy to be fully supplied with water and continued on towards Alpha.
Wow, this seemed to take forever but the weather was great and I’m sure under different circumstances I would really enjoy the Marchant in the daylight!!!!
Alpha was a pretty full house but had a great 10min power nap here before I carried onwards. The winds picked up quite a bit once getting above the Bush line and got pretty bloody gusty but still very doable and once I started dropping from memorial cross it was pretty pleasant all the way to Kime hut, snooze time J
Tried not to stay to long at Kime as I wanted the rope and ladder section done before the night winds picked up so carried on after a quick nap and resupply of water.
Getting to the top of bridge peak reintroduced me to the gusty winds and I realized my hopes of hitting Maungahuka hut before they arrived were lost..
Pretty soon driving rain joined the party and the winds kept picking up!!! 50k winds had long come and gone, not sure what they were up too but they were very taxing!!!
By this stage I was in two icebreaker tops, long johns, a windbreaker, a waterproof jacket, waterproof pants, 2 or 3 buffs and had sealskinz gloves on (these are new to me and honestly a lifesaver on this trip as they kept my hands warm and usable).
The final approach of sharp ridges and climbs before the ropes had me shiting my pants as the winds attacked me forcefully from the side, the rain kept hammering into me the darkness was fast approaching and everything was slippery, basically the mountain gods did not want to give up a main range SKS and were doing their best to stop me. Regardless I had to at least make it to the hut so push on I did.
Was so bloody happy to reach the start of the ropes and felt a lot safer with something fixed to hold onto so the next bit went a bit better and I was very soon inching my way down the ladder and soon after stumbling through the door into Maungahuka hut.
The shocked look on the couple staying the night at the hut was priceless as they were convinced about 3 hours before no one else would be coming from that direction as they had found the conditions treacherous and they had gotten progressively worse since then!! This is where I called it quits, threw in the towel. I was more scared than I had ever been in a mission, that last section has severely tested me and I can still feel the dread I felt now and the winds were getting stronger so carrying on did not seem smart.
I put a message out to Mr Martini that it was over and I was waiting out the storm and he agreed it was the wise choice……….
Another message from Chis that he had received from one Mr Tim Sutton commenting that I’d probably be fine to carry on, this was all I needed!!! Fuck it this is happening let’s do this shit!!!!!!
To the shock of the two tampers I got my crap together and headed back out into the elements.
Big thanks by the way Tim, you seriously saved the SKS!!!!
Night #2
The road to Anderson’s was where my mission truly started as the winds picked up, the rain continued on, temperatures plummeted and due to crazy thick cloud I couldn’t see a thing, staying on course was extremely difficult and numerous times I found myself off target and having to back track and desperately search for the track again.
Finally reached Anderson’s and refilled some water but couldn’t go in and power nap as there were sleeping tampers inside so had 5min kip in driving rain on the seat outside, somewhat sheltered before heading back out.
From here it was still harsh conditions but the going was ok, got very lost around Mt Crawford somehow and entered a brief panic mode as I seemed to make it worse until finally I found trail again and managed to get going in the right direction J happy days!!!!!
Finally somewhere along the way to Drac biv my 2nd long night ended and the sun rose again, the rain had eased, easy from here right???
Day #3
Met a fellow runner at I think it was Pukematewai, sorry dude I’ve forgotten your name but just a quick yarn did amazing things to lift my spirits for a bit, cheers man!!!!!
Found it easier going along over Arete and Dundas, this was getting easy again, my calf was giving me hell, I was cold and tired but I was moving, navigating well and feeling pretty happy, for a little bit at least J
Didn’t last long as Logan felt a very long time coming and Pukemoremore even longer and then what felt an age after leaving Pukemoremore I was still right there according to GPS so this freaked me out no end and felt I was going downhill fast with no end in site, in fact was I running in circles????
Remembering that if the rain (that was driving again by this point) was hitting my left cheek I was all good and going in the right direction, so confirming that this was the case I sped of in a frantic search of Walker. This method worked well and after a while I summited Walker with a grin on my face and turned my attention towards West peak.
Along here I switched my navigation mode to keeping the wet left check method going and trying to spot footprints in the mud between rock cairns, thankful for the recent heavy traffic up here!!!!
Got to west peak feeling hopeful again and through trial and error (lots of error) got across to East peak.
From here it should be plain sailing but was still very tricky making it to Herapai with a few navigational errors causing backtracks and up climbs that seriously were not needed at this stage!!!!!
Anyway, I finally found the track down, made it to the hut where I picked up Lucy and told Hayden to pack up and follow. Next was a ridiculously slow drop down to the bottom and Putara car park, I had to power nap on the way down, had very vivid strong hallucinations and a soak in the river to numb my legs a little (they were nothing but shafts of pain by this stage).
Getting to the car in about 61 hours since leaving, traveling about 160 odd is and 14 or 15000 meter of vert I was broken, humbled but mostly relieved. I had done it, my dream of a main range SKS was realized and nothing could ever take that away from me!!!
Would I do it again? Fuck no. Would I suggest someone else doing it for their first time ? Definitely!!!!!
Tararua Speed Records 