Gwenan Reiley and Emma Pescini SKV 2022

2022 New Year’s DayTararua’s –

SK Valleys: a long way in 23 hours and 42mins6 months ago, I had no idea that such a thing existed, but that all changed one day last year on a Tararua’s adventure with Chris when I asked the innocent question “What’s an SK?”SK stands for Schormann to Kaitoke, and to complete one you essentially travel on foot the majority of the Tararua ranges, North to South. Schormann is now known as Putara road-end, so I guess it should really be called a P-K. There are 3 different ways to complete an S-K and we opted for the “easier” of the 3 being SK valleys and to throw a bit more of a challenge in we decided to try and do it in less than 24 hours! As a rookie to the Tararua’s I really had no idea how bloody tough this actually is but I knew that Darryl was keen for a crack and that Emma was mad enough to join us. So the 3 adventurers planned to stay at Putara base camp on the 28th and get up super early and run on the 29th. But no one can control the weather, and a serve weather warning for the afternoon of the 28th with lots of rain meant that the Tararua’s would have to wait. Family life, a busy schedule of work and other commitments meant that we really had no back up dates until late March. But then the amazing Michelle (Darryl’s wife) volunteered to get up at 2am on New Years Day and drive us over to Putara.

It looks like we are doing it! Michelle you are a star!!!New Year Day morning, 2.30am: I pick up Emma, the roads are busy, it’s full of people coming home from NYE celebrations. My younger self would think I am mental doing what I am about to do, what are you talking about, your older self thinks you are mental 3.15am: we drop my car at the Kaitoke road end and all jump into Darryl’s. See you again tomorrow (hopefully!)5.10am: We are ready to roll. Putara road end, the dawn is breaking. Some photos for prosperity, head torches on the ready, nervous energy. The clock starts, we are off! Putara to Roaring Stag hut: we start the journey looking at the forest through the tunnel of light from our head torches. It takes a few moments to get used to the shadows they create whilst running over the tree roots, but we soon settle into a rhythm “slow and steady, relaxed, calm”. The dawn is definitely breaking now and with it the forest is coming to life. The birds are singing and the sun is starting to glisten through the trees as we approach our first climb for the day, 770m and on towards Roaring Stag. The rain coat I put on to stay warm at the start was already packed away, it’s going to be a hot day, you can already tell. Roaring Stag Hut to Cleft Creek: now this is where it gets interesting! Off trail and into the Ruamahanga riverbed. This was the reason we pulled the pin earlier in the week. Last time I had seen this river it was in the winter time and it was raging, I could not imagine travelling down it. But today it looked good, inviting (almost). I turned to Darryl and said “which way?” his response. “Just straight down”. So that’s what we did, started off trying to pick a route down the river which was as straight as we could be and as safe as possible. This meant multiple river crossings. The river was cold, may be even refreshing, running fast and generally deep. I am glad we had made the call to come down here at 200mm, I think any higher would have just taken the fun out of it. I noticed when crossing that the rocks were very slimy and slippery, particularly the bigger ones. So trying to avoid them where I could meant for an easy route across. Until that was on the fateful crossing when the river was high, running fast and the rocks were slippery.

Emma and Darryl were linking ahead of me and Emma shouted over the rushing river noise “are you OK Gwen”, no sooner had I responding with “Yep all good” and I was swimming! My first thought “shit my phone is getting wet” quickly followed by “shit this is cold”. You have to laugh! Turns out an IPhone is more resilient than I have given it credit for, a quick dry off (for the phone) and on we went. The sun was coming up in the valley now and it was creating the most beautiful colours reflecting off the river valley. We stopped many times just to look at it and take it all in, you really can’t get more beautiful. Eventually the river started to narrow, we had to sidle up around the river rocks. It felt like rock climbing rather than running! But before we knew it we had reached our turn off point “Cleft Creek”. Cleft Creek towards the Mt Bruce road end – the sight detour!From the riverbed you go straight up the banks of cleft creek bush bashing your way to the track. We found the track pretty easily but then lost it again pretty much straight away. On finding it for the second time, in our excitement started running along following the river – rather than the creek.

It was only after my daydreaming about how beautiful the river looked from up high, coming across some confusing signs that said Cow Creek hut was the way we had come from and Roaring Stag was from a totally different direction and some more running and daydreaming that had me go “Darryl, Emma, I think we are going the wrong way!”. We stopped checked the route, checked the maps, checked the GPS. Bugger we were definitely going the wrong way. Not to worry, back we went to Cleft Creek. Take two! Cleft Creek to Cow Saddle (and on to Cow Creek Hut)Now going the right way we confidently headed along the creek towards Cow saddle. I contemplated the error made. On the plus side it was an easy fix, on the downside it used up time and energy that I would have rather saved for later. But the real winner was the lesson it taught me, do not be complacent in the Tararua’s especially when it is dark later and you have been running all day! That lesson would be the most valuable lesson I learnt all day. Climbing up towards Cow saddle, first following the creek, then into the bush. I was excited to think that we would soon be hitting the track we did back a few months ago on our way up to Cattle ridge. I remember the sign of the cow, and sure enough there it was shimmering in the sunlight (665m) not far now down to the river over another amazing swing bridge and Cow Creek Hut. We took a moment to sit down, refuel and relax in the shade. It was not even 11am and the temperature was already . Cow Creek Hut to Mitre Flat HutAfter the last “detour” we took our time and made doubly sure we were running the right way this time. I knew it was along the Waingama river so the question was, upstream or downstream, left or right bank? Not taking any changes, we also checked on the GPS. We were good to go.The next section of the trail should be beautiful, it is beautiful, you are following a trail alongside the river. But man I found it hard work. The heat of the day, the early start and little sleep I managed were definitely catching up with me. Lots of tree fall to navigate, climbing and scrambling, lots of creeks to cross, cooling in the hot day, lots of traversing up and around slips, sometimes so close to the river it felt like you could jump in it, other times in the dense bush like the river was no where to be seen. At one point I asked myself the question “why on earth would anyone actually tramp here, it is really hard going” – we were averaging 3km/hr. At the time I could not think of an answer, but now it is obvious. The route is so remote we did not see a soul. The river so clear and blue you could see trout swimming around (the size of my fore arm). The mountains so big and tall all around you the green glowing against the blue sky. All the time the river shimmering and reflecting the light, drawing you into it to cool off from the heat of the day.

That’s why people come out here. A few times along that track we sat on a log, or by a stream feeding the river, trying to cool down, wondering how on earth we would get to Kaitoke. It really was a stunning day, but so very very very hot. But just before 2pm we arrive at Mitre Flats hut, just in time for some shade and a sit down, we were all cooking! Mitre Flats Hut to Atiwhakatua Hut According to the topo maps we had only done 22km, Garmin said more, even so we had over 50km to go. It seemed an impossible task. We had already done a bloody hard day out. Don’t think about it too hard Gwen, just one foot in front of the other! We knew when we left the hut we were straight into a climb up Barton track. The DOC signs said 4km to Atiwhakatua hut. We knew better and prepared for longer. It turns out that the climb was actually quite nice and the trail much easier than we had been running on. So we started to make better time. But alas, that did not last. This climb into the next valley had two parts to it, and whilst the first part was pleasant, the second part was more like what we had come to expect from this part of the Tararua’s. Towards the top of the climb Emma and I sat on some logs sweat stinging our eyes, dripping wet. Two happy but very hot and tired runners. Soon Darryl appeared not looking so good, “ladies, I can’t keep my heart rate down, the heat and the hills are too much today – I am calling it at Holdsworth”. We told him to see how he feels after the descent. We had come so far, he could not leave us now. After 2 hours of climbing, descending and climbing again we meet the fork in the trail towards the Atiwhakatua hut and as we expected the DOC signs were not to be trusted. It said we had done 3.5km from Mitre Flats Hut and still had 2.3km to get to Atiwhakatua Hut. Now I was hot and tired but even I knew that maths did not add up! We laughed and carried on our way, but soon with renewed energy knowing that we would be heading into well travelled tracks. Having not seen anyone all day this was an exciting milestone.Running into Atiwhakatua valley we crossed the river, Darryl ahead, I see him running on and assumed he just wanted to get a jump start on us, so I carried on running. But the further and faster I ran, the more I could not see Darryl. I thought “great, Darryl’s feeling better”. Then after a while stopped turned around to Emma and said “is Darryl behind us or in front”. She laughed, he was behind! He had gone to the river to cool down again. So we regrouped, Darryl was feeling worse. Atiwhakatua would be his last stop. Finally the hut appeared; and we joined a wonderful family with small kids for snacks and chats. It was great to tell the story of what we had done. I told them “thank god we did not reccie that part of the course first, or else we would have never embarked on the SK”. They laughed, we laughed. Emma told them that we were running to Kaitoke, “what tonight?”. “Yes – we have until 5.10am to get there!” They said they would think about us as they slept. But sadly the laughs needed to end and we had to say our tearful goodbye to Darryl. It was not your day today Darryl, but it will be soon, you are an absolute legend and a true inspiration. Keep being you! Atiwhakatua Hut to Pig FlatWhoop whoop, the running is awesome.

Fast and flowing we are on a motorway (well in relative terms). What difference a change of terrain and with it pace can do. The body felt great!!! How can this be? Mentally hitting the halfway mark in expected time (rather than distance) was uplifting. Garmin said we had done a marathon (the topo maps something less). Then crossing a bridge I banged my big toe hard. I yelped with pain, that really really really hurt. I had caught both my big toes several times throughout the day on tree roots. I think I might be saying goodbye to those toenails pretty soon The sign to our next climb, river ridge track all the way up to 780m at Pig flats. About 40mins and 4.6km of consistent climbing up “normal” size tree root steps.

It felt like a perfectly graded trail compared to the prior 12 hours of running . The day was still hot, even at 6pm and sweat was again stinging my eyes. But we knew that at the top we would have cell phone coverage and the excitement of sending a message home. From me “at Pig flats, wow that first section was very very hard”. From Emma “at Pig flats, tired but in good spirits”. I think that sums up the mood well. On to Totara! Pig flats to Totara Hut We turn off pig flats on to Totara Creek track. Downhill all the way to the Waiohine river. A quad and big toe crusher! And by the end a knee killer. The hop, skips and jumps that normally take me down a tree root descent were in short supply with me making ever increasing safe choices the more the body tired and the closer the river came. The closer you get to the bottom the more that steps start to replace tree roots, and a smile pops on my face. I did ask myself the question “why bother with the steps all the way out here”. There must be some good reason, all I could think of was that there was an easier way into the hut than the one we took. Apart from the well travelled trail of the Atiwhakatua river trail (and hut) we had seen no trampers on track or in the huts. So it was a welcome surprise to see a Dad and his son tramping down to Totara Flats, “you heading to the hut”. “No Kaitoke!” I chuckle as we run off down the hill. We do a final cross over the river straight into Totara hut and a sit down and our final fuel up before dark. Another long chat to a hut guest, only 3 people in the hut that night, he was down from Auckland to catch fish. We chatted and ate and renewed our energy (and shared our blood with the sandflies). But time to keep moving, it was 8pm and darkness was not far away. Totara Flats to Cone Hut (via Cone saddle)I was so happy to make it to Totara flats before darkness. Emma had never been here and I wanted her to see the flats in daylight. So stunning, the grass up to our waists with a single track flatted through it showing us the way. Some faster km’s as well all the way to where the flats meet the river. I remember doing this section with Darryl, Jade, Mel and Anna over winter and we followed the riverbed past the slip and around the bend. This time after the slip we took the trail through the forest. It was hard to tell whether it was faster or slower, by this stage I had no comprehension of time and Garmin decided enough was enough and at 51km and 2,400m elevation and 15hrs and 15mins it died.

Topo maps said we had done 41km. A big difference! A final sit on a rock by the side of the Waiohine river, watching the sun setting, contemplating climbing Cone saddle in the dark. The next goal was to find the start of the climb before darkness, and with head torches out as the trees made the trail gloomy we found it. Up we go! It was now pitch black, it goes dark fast! I was recognising tree fall as we climbed, this one has orange hazard tape and you go to the left, this one we went to the left last time and had to bush bash, let’s go right, we still had to bush bash. Finding the trail on the other side of tree fall was not always easy, so staying calm, focusing on clues in the trail and using GPS where needed kept us moving in the right direction, climbing, climbing, climbing. Somewhere near the top I said to Emma “we need to stop my knee is really sore, I will tape it some more and have some Panadol”. We calmly sat in the darkness, on top of a mountain in the Tararua’s, still in tshirts, still wiping sweat from our eyes. In a strange way very relaxing. Reflecting on the fact that we still had 7 hours of running still to go, I remember us both thinking “hard to believe it”. The climbing was slow in the dark, but we were doing it, staying on route, when we started to go down I knew we had crested the first of the peaks, we would go down before going back up again to make the final saddle push and the signs that would lead us to Cone Hut. Finally they came at 11.30pm, the sign says 1km and 20mins. I know you are misleading me sign; so we joked about it and set off descending to Cone hut.Cone hut to the bridge across the Tauherenikau riverYes! We are on the home straight. In normal run terms it’s still a long way, how long, I have long since stopped caring. But I know that it’s easier and faster following the Tauherenikau river. We did not stop at the hut, we have 5 hours to get to Kaitoke. For the first time I allow myself to think “we might just do this”. Time to get moving, and again I am amazed at how fast we are moving and how the change in terrain improves the energy levels. It feels great! With darkness the forest comes to life in a totally different way. The beautiful sounds of the Morepork, the possums, hundreds and hundreds of possums eyes glowing in our head torches, then watching us as we run by, their claws scratching around in the trees over our heads. The moths the size of my finger trying to dance in the beam of the light, the spiders and array of crawlers all darting out of our way as our feet pound down on the trail.

We were starting to gain a good rhythm with our running but then we would hit tree fall. Major tree fall, it looked very fresh. Slow to navigate around in the dark. But again, learning our lesson from this morning, don’t be complacent, back track to the orange markers, take our time, use the GPS. We always found our way around and back to the trail; the map and compass stayed safely tucked away in the dry bag. We travel through the changing terrain well until I find myself upside down in some bushes. How on earth did that happen. All I could do was lie there and laugh, I could not move, I could not get myself out, Emma had to pull me out! We are running along and now it’s Emma’s time to stop. A painful shin. Some pain meds; a rub, some pretzels and we are off again. As we ran I started to tick off some mental milestones, the grass flats, the block XVI turn off, the larger of the creek crossings, the small climb with the rope, the two arrows sending you down towards the bridge. It is here somewhere, we are so very close. And as we are turning around looking for clues we see it above our head, we are literally stood 2 meters from it. That brought some laughter out. 3.05am: The bridge to KaitokeRight Emma; let’s push. We were running well. This is insane, 22 hours on our feet and we are running well. Mixing up the running and power walking. Getting closer every step. Keep going straight Emma, just keep going straight. The mountain shelter, the Dobson track, the slip, the climb over more tree fall! But this time it was old tree fall and someone had cut a hole in the log to put your foot on. Very helpful, but Emma got stuck, legs stiff, nothing left in the body, I had to push her over and she tumbled down the other side. May be the bodies were not as fresh after all Then puffer saddle, the last climb and we can smell the finish. We are going to do it! We are over before we know it, hitting the Marchant ridge turn off and finally the 730m to go sign. Down the steps, the longest and most painful 730m of my life. Having to stop 2/3rds of the way down grateful that we were not up against the clock. Hands on knees, taking a moment. Then the forest signalling the ymca and the fence line and we hear “there they are; I can see their lights”. OMG! It was Darryl and Victoria, what absolute legends coming to see us over the finish line. It was such a celebration.

They really made it just the perfect finish. What an amazing; brutal, crazy, insane day! I loved it! Putara to Kaitoke via the valleys, 6 saddles and 5 rivers. 23 hours and 42 mins! Beers and chippies; chats and laughter in the car park as we saw the dawn break again and the start to another day! Wow! Did that just all really happen?

Sam Hansby Main Range SK 2020

Last time I was trying to sleep the night before an SK, I was lying next to Ron in my Subaru Legacy, two years prior. The Legacy is a famously long car but even with that famous length, it was still an uncomfortable sleep. This time, I was in a bed inside a house, full-on sheltered human-sized house, 4km away from the entrance to the Tararua Forest Park. Ron wasn’t there this time but Joe Murphy, Liz Palmer, Sharisse Eberlein, and Josh Campbell were. Really good bunch of people, no loud breathers. I’m a loud breather myself which is a shame but when you’re doing it yourself it doesn’t keep you awake like it might others. I had a much better sleep than in 2018 but if I was to compare it to a sleep in my own bed then I would rate it as an average to poor sleep. 

Figure 1. Photo Cred Joe Murphy 

Josh set off first for the valleys at 4.03am, then Joe and Liz for the tops at 4.05am and I made my feet run at 4.30am on a calm star-lit morning into the Tararua.  

I made Herepai Hut at 5.30am feeling great. No spider webs, one shoe wet. Just after I set off from the hut, the sun was starting to make its voice heard, painting the tree trunks with bright orange stripes. As the trees disappeared, I was compensated with a great view of the mountains and the path ahead. I could also see Joe and Liz not too far ahead. Once I caught the pair, I used my arms to move them off the track. This was my big SK day and I wasn’t going to contend for track space at any point during the day, not for anyone! Nah just joking, we exchanged pleasantries and the interaction helped me on my way. 

I decided not to drop down to Dundas Hut for water. It was warm but I had three litres of water to last me to Dracophyllum Hut which should be plenty. The decision was worth it but five minutes out from Dracophyllum, I was regretting it as I was out of water and keeping an eye out for any puddles. Before I found a drinking puddle, the hut appeared and I directed myself towards the tap. I really enjoyed that water. With about six litres of water wobbling around in various bladders within and outside my body, I made my way onwards. 

I had been worried about navigation since last time the trip was under full cover for most of the day and we had constant path corrections and maps checks to deal with. I needn’t have worried as this time there wasn’t a cloud in the sky but that created a different issue.  

The sun was yelling by 10am.  “Hey I’m the sun!” 

Yes sun, I hear you, it’s OK. 

Despite the clear views, I still made a brief visit up to see Kelleher which was pleasant enough. I wouldn’t call home about it but there’s only a few mountains I would call home about, Tapuae-o-Uenuku being one of them. That’s a great mountain. Earlier this year I “ran” up Tapi and called home when I thought I was very close to the summit to have the clouds clear and realise I was on the wrong ridge heading for the wrong summit. That was a much worse mistake than heading up Kelleher. 

Josh had given me a small container of sunscreen before we left but for reasons unknown I couldn’t find it in my bag. I rummaged and rummaged until I had rummaged myself into a frustration score of 4 out of 10 which was good enough to accept that I must’ve left it. I had put some on at 4am so that should be fine, I lied to myself. 

After 12 hours, I reached Maungahuka Hut. Vitamin D synthesis was well on its way below my skin so that was positive but I was very parched and a little low. Fortunately I had promised myself new socks here. If I hadn’t found the new socks in my bag, I fear my reaction would’ve been a reckless one such as breaking one of the hut windows or setting off my beacon. As luck would have it, I found them and I was able to wander away from Maungahuka Hut with my feet feeling as fresh as could be under the circumstances. 

Figure 2 Photo cred Unknown tramper from Palmy North 

As we all know, my food game is immaculate on these big runs. I had a smorgasbord of food in my pack which added unwanted mass but much wanted sustenance. Mac n cheese wraps were the main feature on the menu. Each one hand-made by me the day before. Boy did they do me well that day. I powered (walked) up Bridge Peak eating one of the more distinctive wraps of the day with just peri peri sauce and olives as filler since I had run out of mac n cheese at this point in the making. It wasn’t the best wrap of the day but it got me to Kime Hut. 

I covered this next section, from Mt Hector to Mt Alpha, really well. The sun was getting ready for bed after a big day out in the open. It really had made its presence known and good on it for that, well done sun. It was cool watching it settle down towards its sleeping spot in the Northern Hemisphere knowing that I had outlasted it in my hemisphere. As I descended down Mt Alpha and made my way into the tree line, I put my head torch on and prepped myself for Marchant Ridge. At this point I decided I would take a caffeine pill to get me through the last 18 km but I couldn’t find any in my bag so instead I pretended to take one in the hope that the placebo effect would work its magic. 

Leaving Alpha Hut at around 10pm, tiredness had begun to consume me. I couldn’t work it out but for some reason the imaginary caffeine pill I had taken earlier wasn’t taking hold. I was feeling the kind of tired you feel after a heavy night of drinking and you know that as soon as you lie down and close your eyes, you’ll be asleep – a good feeling to have when you want to sleep. I managed to eat some chocolate but getting anything else down my gullet was proving difficult. One good thing about when some people get tired while continuing to be awake, is that they start to hallucinate and if they’re aware that the hallucinations aren’t real then it can be somewhat engaging. Anyway, it was an interesting 4 hours but I made Kaitoke carpark at 1.46am, 21 hours and 16 minutes after I left Putara road end. I rolled into my car, after taking a drink from the stream, and fell into a deep 3 hour sleep. 

What a day. Really happy with it. Thanks to Joe Murphy and Liz Palmer for letting me tag along on their plans and well done on a massive day. Thanks very much to Sharisse Eberlein for driving everywhere. Well done to Josh Campbell for bagging his SK valleys. Thanks Chris Martin and Tanya Tait for the spot tracker. Btw I found the caffeine pills in a pocket of my bag with the sunscreen and some sour lollies.  

Strava link https://www.strava.com/activities/4475755879                   

S-K Valleys 24 Hour stats

Michael Stuart Main Range SKS

December 2018 I was treated to a near perfect run of a main range SK, this is not to say that it was easy going or not difficult but conditions were near on perfect. I had clear skies and sunshine most of the way, one brief rain spell and a bit of clag along Marchant ridge. Still under these great conditions I arrived to the glory of Kaitoki completely broken and forever in love with the epicness that is the Tararua main range.

As I sat shivering in my mates car waiting for a ride back to civilization I was already thinking about a return and knew that although at some point I should try out the tarn and valleys traverses, I had to come back to the main range again first but that time I wouldn’t be shivering in a car in kaitoki,  I’d be returning the same way I’d come back to Putara.

Over the next year I had a near perfect build up, getting in plenty of vert and rugged terrain, the two standout highlights being the Northburn miler and even more so the reasonably new race DU135 in Australia (if you love vert, gnarly trail and epicness this is a MUST do event!!!) By July the plan was already locked in place and ferry tickets were booked for the end of December with a plan to make a boys trip away out of it with my Son Hayden coming along for the Journey and of course my best mate in the world Lucy who plays a part in almost every adventure I do.

Finally the time to go had arrived and with a car full of gear and xmas lamb sandwiches the three of us headed North to windy Wellington and more importantly the Mighty Tararua Ranges, excitement was at a all time high!!!!

I put a call out for a short notice lunch time beer and was lucky to get a bite from local runner Marta who gave me some much appreciated Intel on recent conditions in the ranges before I continued north. All that was left to do was get some KFC (my compulsory pre big mission meal) and to park up at the trail head!!!!

The plan was to start  in the morning after a good sleep in the car but already the mountain gods were playing their devilish tricks and the car got rocked so much by wind through the night that not much sleep was had and I started off knowing it probably wasn’t going to be the same conditions as last year….. Haha if only I had known then how right I was; but then probably was better I didn’t!!!

The first wee bit I took easy with Hayden and Lucy to help get Lucy  over the bridges as they were staying at Herapai  hut for the two nights I would be adventuring but once past the second bridge I slipped into my own easy pace leaving Hayden  to be pulled up by a frantic pup, desperate not to be left behind.

After filling up my water at the hut I carried on up into ever thickening cloud as I reached the top and was happy to make the crossing to west peak with no navigational issues even with near no visibility.

Carrying along from west peak the jacket soon came out as misty cloud became drizzle which very soon became stinging hail, this is summertime right???? Haha try telling the mountain gods that!!!

All this just added to the adventure and with high spirits I reached Dundas and grinned as I enjoyed pushing through the elements.

Here is where I made my first minor navigational error and started dropping down a wrong spur or ridge but luckily quickly realized my error and climbed back up to drop down correctly to Brockett rocks.

The rain and hail continued until about Arete but then stopped and just as I reached the point where the route becomes marked trail the clouds started opening up to clear sky and sunshine, things were looking up!!!!!

Things went along pretty sweet to Drac Biv, a slight niggle started in my right calf but felt like nothing to worry about. Filled up on more water at the big and carried onwards.

Missed the slight turn and almost ended up on top of Kelleher but realized my mistake and corrected course and carried on sweetly again for more water at Andersons memorial hut.

The route was interesting as usual along to Maungahuka  as darkness got close and head torch was on for the first time as I headed for the famous steel ladder section.

It was along this part that the wind really got breezy again and I had to put some thermal bottoms on too,  very unusual for me!!!!

The ropes and ladder section went surprisingly well and I was soon mincing my way along the tops again towards bridge peak. It was somewhere along here that my calf niggle became a painful sprain of some sort and needed strong massage therapy a few time to keep moving well, also as my feet had been soaked from the start right along I could feel blisters forming on the balls of my feet, something that I never ever get but was luckily ready for, always expect the unexpected!!!!! On the happy side I still had zero chaffing which is usually my constant companion..

Kime hut was just a quick water refill in the dark and carry onwards once again. Things carried on more the same as I made Alpha hut and onwards towards Marchant ridge. It was around this point that my resolve to do full mission was being severely tested and I felt if a car had been at Kaitoki headed for Putara I wouldn’t be able to stop myself flagging a ride; I was very cold, tired and sore and I hadn’t even got to the turn around point yet, in fact the carpark of glory still seemed a lifetime away, how was I supposed to get there and then do the reverse of all I had just done??? Regardless I still had to get to Kaitoki  so I carried on quite ready to cry myself a little pity party into the now rising sun.

Day #2!!!!

Coming down the last bit to Kaitoke I saw a fellow runner heading up, pretty sure she did a KS, she was traveling well and seemed the polar opposite to how I felt, but somehow seeing someone else out amongst it helped to rebuild my resolve to carry onwards. I were however strongly considering returning via the valleys, I had convinced myself this to be the smart option!!! I checked the forecast when I could and there was some rain coming but only 50k winds so I couldn’t really keep fooling myself that the main range wasn’t on the cards, 50k winds are a breeze!!!!

I’m not sure how but at the last moment as the carpark of glory came onto view I decided a very fast turn around and get going along the main ridge was the only option I should take so a quick selfie with the sign was had and I instantly started moving (very slowly) back the way I had come. It was clear skies and a nice sunny morning so was thankfully of shade and had my first 5min power nap less than a k into my return.

Refilling my water at a good side stream I had past about 1.5ks from the end I was happy to be fully supplied with water and continued on towards Alpha.

Wow,  this seemed to take forever but the weather was great and I’m sure under different circumstances I would really enjoy the Marchant in the daylight!!!!

Alpha was a pretty full house but had a great 10min power nap here before I carried onwards. The winds picked up quite a bit once getting above the Bush line and got pretty bloody gusty but still very doable and once I started dropping from memorial cross it was pretty pleasant all the way to Kime hut, snooze time J

Tried not to stay to long at Kime as I wanted the rope and ladder section done before the night winds picked up so carried on after a quick nap and resupply of water.

Getting to the top of bridge peak reintroduced me to the gusty winds and I realized my hopes of hitting Maungahuka hut before they arrived were lost..

Pretty soon driving rain joined the party and the winds kept picking up!!! 50k winds had long come and gone, not sure what they were up too but they were very taxing!!!

By this stage I was in two icebreaker tops, long johns, a windbreaker, a waterproof jacket, waterproof pants, 2 or 3 buffs and had sealskinz gloves on (these are new to me and honestly a lifesaver on this trip as they kept my hands warm and usable).

The final approach of sharp ridges and climbs before the ropes had me shiting my pants as the winds attacked me forcefully from the side, the rain kept hammering into me the darkness was fast approaching and everything was slippery, basically the mountain gods did not want to give up a main range SKS and were doing their best to stop me. Regardless I had to at least make it to the hut so push on I did.

Was so bloody happy to reach the start of the ropes and felt a lot safer with something fixed to hold onto so the next bit went a bit better and I was very soon inching my way down the ladder and soon after stumbling through the door into Maungahuka hut.

The shocked look on the couple staying the night at the hut was priceless as they were convinced about 3 hours before no one else would be coming from that direction as they had found the conditions treacherous and they had gotten progressively worse since then!! This is where I called it quits, threw in the towel. I was more scared than I had ever been in a mission, that last section has severely tested me and I can still feel the dread I felt now and the winds were getting stronger so carrying on did not seem smart.

I put a message out to Mr Martini that it was over and I was waiting out the storm and he agreed it was the wise choice……….

Another message from Chis that he had received from one Mr Tim Sutton commenting that I’d probably be fine to carry on, this was all I needed!!! Fuck it this is happening let’s do this shit!!!!!!

To the shock of the two tampers I got my crap together and headed back out into the elements.

Big thanks by the way Tim, you seriously saved the SKS!!!!

Night #2

The road to Anderson’s was where my mission truly started as the winds picked up, the rain continued on, temperatures plummeted and due to crazy thick cloud I couldn’t see a thing, staying on course was extremely difficult and numerous times I found myself off target and having to back track and desperately search for the track again.

Finally reached Anderson’s and refilled some water but couldn’t go in and power nap as there were sleeping tampers inside so had 5min kip in driving rain on the seat outside, somewhat sheltered before heading back out.

From here it was still harsh conditions but the going was ok, got very lost around Mt Crawford somehow and entered a brief panic mode as I seemed to make it worse until finally I  found trail again and managed to get going in the right direction  J happy days!!!!!

Finally somewhere along the way to Drac biv my 2^nd long night ended and the sun rose again, the rain had eased, easy from here right???

Day #3

Met a fellow runner at I think it was Pukematewai, sorry dude I’ve forgotten your name but just a quick yarn did amazing things to lift my spirits for a bit, cheers man!!!!!

Found it easier going along over Arete and Dundas,  this was getting easy again, my calf was giving me hell, I was cold and tired but I was moving, navigating well and feeling pretty happy, for a little bit at least J

Didn’t last long as Logan felt a very long time coming and Pukemoremore even longer and then what felt an age after leaving Pukemoremore I was still right there according to GPS so this freaked me out no end and felt I was going downhill fast with no end in site, in fact was I running in circles????

Remembering that if the rain (that was driving again by this point) was hitting my left cheek I was all good and going in the right direction,  so confirming that this was the case I sped of in a frantic search of Walker. This method worked well and after a while I summited Walker with a grin on my face and turned my attention towards West peak.

Along here I switched my navigation mode to keeping the wet left check method going and trying to spot footprints in the mud  between rock cairns, thankful for the recent heavy traffic up here!!!!

Got to west peak feeling hopeful again  and through trial and error (lots of error) got across to East peak.

From here it should be plain sailing but was still very tricky making it to Herapai with a few navigational errors causing backtracks and up climbs that seriously were not needed at this stage!!!!!

Anyway, I finally found the track down, made it to the hut where I picked up Lucy and told Hayden to pack up and follow. Next was a ridiculously slow drop down to the bottom and Putara car park,  I had to power nap on the way down, had very vivid strong hallucinations and a soak in the river to numb my legs a little (they were nothing but shafts of pain by this stage).

Getting to the car in about 61 hours since leaving, traveling about 160 odd is and 14 or 15000 meter of vert I was broken, humbled but mostly relieved. I had done it, my dream of a main range SKS was realized and nothing could ever take that away from me!!!

Would I do it again? Fuck no. Would I suggest someone else doing it for their first time ? Definitely!!!!!

Oli Vincent/Rudi Smith/Robbie Rawles/Tom Hunt SK Main Range 2019

I’ve written this account on behalf of our team of 4 who attempted the Main Range SK in early January 2019. Oli Vincent, Robbie Rawles and myself (Rudi Smith) all from Taranaki and Tom Hunt from Auckland – although he is an honorary Taranakian. We are probably the first group larger than a pair to have a crack at going under 24 hours.

Although I was living overseas at the time, I first ran in the Tararuas back in late 2014. As a training run for the TUM85, I went round the SMR loop in the typical Tararua clag. At the time it was the furthest I’d run. It was also completely the wrong sort of training run for the flat and fast TUM course, but I didn’t know any better at the time. I don’t think I’d even heard of the SK and if I had it would have been incomprehensible. But I absolutely loved being up there.

Fast forward to March 2018 and having been repatriated, I did the SMR loop again. It was a magic run. Now very much aware of the SK, my curiosity was sparked. I bought some extra maps the next day…

A combination of logistics, common-sense and lack of confidence put me off thinking about planning an attempt until August when Oli floated the idea about a group of us going down to give the SK a crack. Robbie and another gun local runner, Kyle Bridgeman, were keen. I muttered something about having a rule to not run all day and all night, but it didn’t fool anyone, much less myself.

Over the coming months we firmed up the date window to 5 days immediately after New Years. Tom joined the team and Kyle, being the most sensible of the group, elected to focus on mountain adventures closer to home. Having done a few runs down that way I was volunteered to be the navigator. Although I was a little apprehensive about the responsibility, it was a good excuse to go and spend some time down there.

My other concern was my ability to keep going for a full 24hrs. I was less worried about my legs lasting, but rather anxious that my body wouldn’t be able to handle the overall fatigue. I’m the sort of person that fades by 8pm and needs to be in bed by 9. A real wild-child. So hopefully by being a useful navigator, the others would not drop me as I stumbled half asleep down the Marchant. Robbie and Tom are both incredibly strong runners; you only need to look at their quads to see that they like hills. Oli was probably more nervous than me, but had a miler under his belt and is most comfortable on highly technical, steep terrain in appalling conditions wearing no more than a light tee. My longest run to date was less than 10 hrs, so I was definitely pushing the unknown.         

November and most of December slipped away with me having other commitments or the weather being mediocre. However, finally before Christmas there seemed to be a weather window to do the Dundas section. I rocked up to Putara after dinner and was just about to sneak in cruisy run down the gravel road when 3 fit chaps rocked up who clearly knew what they were doing. I was introduced to Chris Martin, Chris Swallow and Tom Middlemiss; the latter who was making an attempt the next morning. They kindly offered me the option of joining their party; Tom and Chris S were due to head off at 3am the next morning. I was a little hesitant, simply because I needed some sleep. However I woke alert at 2am and joined them in getting ready. We had a fantastic run together along the Dundas in clear conditions; I was very grateful for the tips on getting out of Herepai Hut (with your back to the hut door head straight forward on the overgrown track), off East Peak (turn right before the waratah)  and off Dundas (take a 180 deg bearing before adjusting to 200 deg as you start to descend). I peeled off at Arete as the clag came in and returned to Putara via Bannister and Cow Saddle (navigationally I was less keen on going down Cattle Ridge in the clag). Chris split shortly after me and dropped down to Poads Road leaving Tom to have a fantastic run out in very marginal conditions. He is well deserving of being #18 on the sub-24hr list. I had an awesome run with two top-notch blokes and the fact that we subsequently had no major navigational issues on our own attempt is very much due to Tom and Chris’s kindness and helpful tips on that run.

From West Peak looking along the Dundas; Chris and Tom are dots on the ridge in the middle of the photo. Storm clouds to the south waiting to greet Tom.

Once the long range forecasts started to come in we firmed up our date to Thursday or Friday as there seemed to be a window of fairer weather between two periods of high winds. At one stage the forecast looked pretty miserable and I thought about suggesting we reschedule. Thankfully the next forecast came in better and I kept my mouth shut. Not sure if the others were having similar concerns. Eventually we settled on Friday morning (at the common start time of 3am) as any earlier than this we’d be hammered by the wind and pushing it to Saturday morning would mean we’d get nailed that evening.

We separately drove down with Robbie picking up Tom and the Spot in Wellington with the plan for me to meet them at Kaitoke. Driving through Levin I couldn’t see the ranges and made sure to double check what the wind speed was there – about the same as forecast for the following morning on Mitre. It felt manageable but I didn’t want it any stronger. One car was left at Kaitoke and we drove north with plenty of banter and discussion on nutritional strategies (Tom and I were both jealous of Robbie for packing 2 cheeseburgers). We collected Oli from Masterton and even more crazy ideas came to the surface (SK via all the road ends anyone?). After a brief stop in Eketahuna for last minute supplies we arrived at the Putara School to stay the night.

With a carb-heavy dinner the banter continued as we went through the route (turn left at the top of the ladder for glory! – note: don’t) and planned pacing. We’d agreed to work on Grant Guise and Matt Bixley’s 2014 splits of 21:30 and Tom had come up with some 22hr splits. I had also prepared some splits ranging from 20 hrs to 23:30. In the lead-up I’d semi-seriously talked about 20hr splits in the hopes that working to that would make us comfortably end up doing 22 hrs or so – allowing for a few slow splits and longer hut stops. I certainly didn’t want to be in the position of being behind splits for the golden 24hr target.

On a more serious tone, we discussed how we’d manage the group dynamics. I was concerned that we could lose a lot of time on stops. With 4 people it would be easy to eat up time if we all stopped at different times to shed gear or pull food from inside our packs. Not much that we could do about hut water stops, but we were hoping the team dynamic would make up for that when we were moving. The goal was for all 4 of us to achieve sub 24hrs together, but we did talk about splitting late (i.e. post Kime) in the day if it looked like some could make it and some couldn’t. But we were all confident that we could make it together – barring any weather, navigational or nutritional troubles.

With that done, we finalised the last bits of gear we wanted to take and hit the sack. As seems to be tradition for pre-SK kips, we all slept lightly. A mighty gust of wind woke us all shortly before our alarm was due. Once breakfast was sorted we headed out the door and down the road. It was quite warm despite the fact we could hear the wind roaring over the tops high above us.

Robbie, Oli & Tom smiling at the start line.

Starting at 3:11am, we moved up the track at a comfortable speed, mostly hot but occasionally we’d feel a cold gust downdraft through the trees reminding us on what was waiting above. We reached the hut a little earlier than I’d hoped for and filled bottles and bladders. A hunter came outside to check what he ruckus was about, probably thinking we’d been up all night looking for the hut. We left him in peace, navigating away from the hut mostly by feel – the track being sufficiently overgrown to prevent one seeing more than a metre ahead.

Navigationally, I did a great job of keeping us off the faint track and taking the direct lines over the leatherwood. The guys were very patient with me despite our legs and hands getting cut up. The higher up we went the more we felt the north-westerly wind and eventually as we crested Herepai we were in its full brunt. Running through to Ruapai was quite unpleasant, being continuously buffeted by the wind coming over ridge. Maybe I stacked it in the dark, but I will maintain I was blown over twice. We all convened at one stage; I was feeling very uncomfortable with the weather and was thinking about bail options, Tom said it was at the upper end of his limit and Oli bellowed that the circumstances were awesome. Further on I elected to stop to don gloves to get some sensation back in my hands and was in two minds about adding my rain shell.

Jumping back on the trail somewhere between Herepai and Ruapai.

I was greatly relieved when finally the dawn broke as I’d been struggling with the route finding in the dark and wispy cloud rushing over us. Shortly before East Peak things started to ease off and it ended up being a quite pleasant drop down the saddle towards West Peak. By the time we were sidling around the summit, we were basking in the sun’s glow and feeling considerably happier.

Oli, Tom and Robbie sidling around West Peak with the winds whipping over Raupae behind.

Our respite from the weather was brief. As we climbed up towards Walker we were enveloped in the clag, although thankfully the wind had now completely left us. Despite having to check the breadcrumbs on my watch a few times, the clag didn’t cause us too much grief until we got to Dundas. At the survey mark Tom whipped out his compass for me and we took a bearing to head off towards Arete. We took the right line, but in front I gradually veered off to the right and followed the start of a scree run until I realised we weren’t on a trail and heading for Triangle Knob. The breadcrumbs on my watch indicated where to go and thankfully the clag thinned out enough for us to see the main ridge around 100m away and 20m higher. We resigned ourselves to getting back on course; the guys were great about it but I was kicking myself for losing 10 minutes.

Oli and Robbie in the clag somewhere along the Dundas ridge.

Things went smoothly from there and I was quite happy with the way we were all moving. So I was a bit surprised when we crested Arete to find that we were roughly 10 minutes off Tom Middlemiss’s splits from when I was there before Christmas. Thankfully the clag thinned as we dropped down to the Pukematewai junction and I knew the rest of the range was easier to navigate. We were confident it wouldn’t take a huge effort to make up the time to get back to our target splits.

Me (Rudi) at the Pukematewai junction. Oli said I reminded him of his grandmother who, I can only presume, was also a mountain runner.

The next section of trail from Pukematewai to Butcher Knob was atrocious. Tom Middlemiss had mentioned that this section was muddy but I didn’t pay the comment much thought. I wish I had. Most of the next 4 km or so was in mid-calf deep mud the consistency of chocolate mousse. Our Tom had it the worst and could only the get meagre traction from his shoes and repeatedly went over. But slip after slip he kept on getting up and moving forward. In a different manner, Oli also came into grief. He caught the front of his left shoe on a submerged root or rock and ripped most of the toe box open. On inspection his insole and sock greeted us through the yawning gap. Not to worry, we were only 7 hrs into a ~24hr run…

The Butcher Knob Chocolate Mousse.

Unfortunately, our pace barely picked up in the firmer section through to Drac Biv and beyond towards Nicols. I found myself getting a bit despondent thinking of the inevitable grind down the Marchant after being out 30 hrs or something. I made a comment to that effect to Oli, but he brushed it off with his usual positivity.

Oli and Robbie smiling in the goblin forest after Drac Biv.

The next section up to Crawford was quite pleasant. The sun was out and a light breeze was a vast improvement of the stifling heat in the forest. Once we siddled around Crawford we got stunning views across the main range. Hector looked very far away but seeing the grotesque beauty of the Tararua Peaks reminded me of why I was up here. I did a time check at Junction Knob and reckoned we were 25 minutes off 24hr pace.

Although the section was very runnable, we were slow dropping down into Andersons. Another time check and we were another 10 minutes down. The stops at the huts and some of the junctions hadn’t been too long, but undoubtedly longer than if we were a group of 2 rather than 4. We pushed on into the last lot of goblin forest and thankfully it wasn’t as oppressively hot as the earlier stint around Drac Biv.

Oli on top of Kahiwiroa. This was the only time Oli touched poles the entire journey. Which was a relief as early on he had “pole-envy” and threatened to snap all 3 pairs we had with us!

On the section along Kahiwiroa, Oli and I chatted about the pace, our now lofty 24hr ambition and what we wanted to achieve. We’d both been moving well throughout the day and although Robbie had had a couple of brief bad patches it was now as if they hadn’t happened. Unfortunately Tom hadn’t come right from the Butchers Knob mud-fest, but being a stubborn-bugger he’d kept moving forward without complaint. In hindsight, it’s easy to see that the constant falls had been a huge energy drain on Tom and it started him down a path leading to a large nutritional hole. Although splitting along the main range was earlier than we’d previously discussed, I was very keen to avoid the disappointment of having no one from the team achieve sub-24. I’d been having enough fun to warrant coming back regardless of my outcome and was happy to push on or stay back. We resolved to keep moving and split no earlier than after the Tararua Peaks to ensure no one came to grief on the via ferrata.

On top of Aokap we found we were 45 minutes off 24hr pace, having dropped another 10 minutes during the previous section. Oli and I continued our discussion on splitting into pairs and Oli dropped back to raise it with Robbie and Tom. Robbie was on the fence about going but ultimately decided to stick back with Tom primarily because Oli and my strengths were more aligned. Oli runs in a blistering, almost suicidal manner downhill but never stacks it; I’m almost the same. But we’re both no match for Robbie climbing. This meant that Robbie gave up his shot at going sub-24 but brushed it off like a true champion. The only thing left to decide was when. This was settled very quickly by the fact that Oli and I had to crank it to make up time and Tom needing 30 minutes at Maungahuka Hut to, in his words, “sort my life out”. Shortly after the start of the climb up to Wright our party of four amicably split into two pairs.

After we split, I reckoned we were 50 minutes down on the 24 hour target, but had 10 and a half hours to make it up. If we could get into Kime by around 8pm (17 hrs from the start) we’d have a shot at getting down the Marchant in time. Provided that Oli’s shoe held up and I managed to stay awake! We both agreed that we’d head back up the Marchant after finishing to meet the guys and finish as a team. We picked up the pace until we were moving at a good Tararua clip – shuffling the downs and flats and wearily clambering the ups. I lead and Oli persistently followed close behind giving me no respite from my own pacing.

We hit Maungahuka Hut in good spirits which only lifted once we realised we’d made 10 minutes back on our Aokap split and were consequently 35 minutes down. We both went to fill our bottles but found no water came out of the tap. I hit the tank and found it to be full. Then I noticed the tap was fully cracked through at its connection. Oli mentioned that he’d read something about it not working; I did a lap of the tank but couldn’t see any valves other than one without a handle. We didn’t have time to muck around so we sprinted (shuffled) to the tarn and scooped water into our bottles and bladders. Only once we got back did Oli remember that someone had wrote something in the hut book about it; as it turned out the valve we wanted was under the tank. Ah well. We left the book by the hut door for the others and cracked on.

We worked hard along the next section and hopes were high that we’d make up even more time. We reached the ladder and via ferrata section and moved through the bottom section pretty quick. Halfway up the ladder I started to feel a little weak so at the top I smashed a gel. Then another one. And then a bar. Oli had been and gone whilst I was eating and I inadvertently sent him “straight up” after skirting round the top of the ladder. It looked a little exposed from where I was standing and I noted the track went around to the right a bit more before climbing up. I sheepishly joined him. We pushed on from there and were soon enough climbing up towards Bridge Peak. I was fervently hoping we’d knock 15 minutes off the split but it kept going and going. Both of us acknowledged we were hungry, but didn’t want to stop. Never go up the Bridge Peak climb on an empty stomach! Eventually we hit the top and made a direct line to Kime Hut, cutting the dogleg.

Half-arsed ladder selfie. We weren’t in the mood to care; we had time to make up!

At that moment Robbie was enjoying dinner at Maungahuka Hut.

 

Our hope of taking 15 minutes off the split was dashed but we still pulled in 10 minutes, leaving us on 25 minutes down. We were well on track to hit our sub-24 target. Kime Hut was choccas and I can only think what the occupants must have thought when we rocked up at 8pm. Two were brave enough to approach and try and engage me in conversation. I responded whilst smashing a Snickers bar into my mouth and rooting around in my bag for a light windproof jacket and headlamp. They produced a packet of sandwiches that an amazing and – to date – unknown mountain runner had delivered for us from Otaki Forks (thank you, whoever you are – please get in touch). Into the pack it went and we left the hut dwellers to enjoy the sunset.

The climb up and over Field and Hector was at that magic time of the evening just as the sun was dipping over the horizon. We pushed on around the Beehives but were discouraged after we crested Atkinson at how far away Alpha was. If only False Spur joined up. Oli had a hard time coming down that section as although his legs were functioning perfectly his left shoe was not. The size of the rocks and pebbles were the perfect size to enter his damaged shoe. We switched our headlamps on halfway down Aston and we were again in darkness. We shortly hit the signpost to Alpha Hut. We’d only made 5 minutes up and were still 20 minutes down. It felt as though we could have easily lost more time on this split, but my earlier optimism of making our time back was shot. We’d worked pretty hard and neither of us could have gone much faster.

Oli on the top of Hector.

 

We bypassed the hut and transitioned from the rocky trail to the loamy and rooty soil. I knew that there was a climb up out of Hells Gate but only realised we were on it once we were halfway up. It was a relief to get it out of the way and we cruised on. Navigationally, it was better than I expected but there were still a few points where Oli had to pull me back to the actual track. Suddenly we hit a sign post. Block XVI. I checked my watch. 40 minutes off the split. We’d gone from 20 minutes over to 20 minutes under! Everything felt lighter. Barring any major difficulties we’d make it. We didn’t slow up though and pushed on.

The last section down the Marchant was defined by two mistakes on my part. On the navigational side, I erred by turning my watch on to tell me how far the finish was as the crow flies. It was depressing how long it took to chip away at those k’s. On the nutritional side, I kindly described and offered Oli first pick of my two accessible caffeine gels. He opted for the Vanilla Cola, leaving me with the Green Plum. On downing his gel he proclaimed that it was the worst gel flavoured in the history of the world. My feelings were almost as hurt as the rest of my body. It also didn’t help that my own gel was coffee flavoured rather than the fruity freshness that I was anticipating. Maybe I’d given him a coffee one instead of the delicious Vanilla Cola? I tried to make amends by offering him half of my remaining Snickers. He agreed, but wanted to wait a little bit. I was hungry and keen to down my half, but was prepared to wait a little bit. A little bit later I mentioned the Snickers. “Nah, a little bit later” was his response. This went on for eternity until he announced that we’d have it at 21:20. I wasn’t sure if he meant that as 9:20pm the following night or indeed our 21:20 split. Another eternity passed and he finally relented. (Half) a Snickers bar tastes best at 12:30am on the Marchant ridge. About 5 km before the end I came to the realisation that my shoes were half a size too small for a 24hr run. The sensation had disappeared from my toes and my normal light form was replaced by heavy, laboured footfall on the dry clay track.

At our 22:30 split I realised we could possibly go under 23 hrs. We didn’t necessarily increase our pace (we couldn’t) but it was a warming thought. Time ticked away with 24 hrs feeling more likely than 23 until we hit that gorgeous post and rail fence in the Kaitoke carpark. We rounded the last corner at 22:59 and sprinted (shuffled) to reach the sign before the dreaded 23:00 ticked over.

22:59!

 

I cursed my previous decision to park the car halfway along the carpark rather than adjacent to the track end and we shuffled down. The “glory” that we’d turned left for consisted of a bag of salty chips, some water and messages to friends and family. We had word from Robbie and were relieved that they were safe, well and still moving but down to Otaki Forks. We were also in awe that they hadn’t stopped and kipped the night out at one of the huts. True legends.

We settled down for a kip, grateful that the others weren’t coming down the Marchant (otherwise we would have felt obliged to head back up). Oli picked the car whilst I opted for the flatter car park gravel. In an ironic twist we were both awoken at 4am by a group of runners heading off to do the Southern Crossing. The others joined us shortly thereafter (almost running me over – my fault, not theirs) in good spirits and we headed off back to civilisation for some well-earned rest.

Everyone seemed to pull up well: Robbie did a sub 20min 5km the day after, Tom was fizzing for the Ultra Easy 3 weeks after and Oli immediately started talking about the Valleys SK. Unfortunately it took me a little while to come right. My running was back to normal a couple of days after, but I subsequently ended up with a skin infection on my lower legs. Presumably the Butcher Knob mud went to work on my scratched up legs. I was prescribed IV antibiotics, 1kg of moisturizer and 4 days of bed-rest; two separate doctors ignominiously advised that my symptoms and response were exactly what they see in elderly patients. I’m mentioning this as I’ve now learnt that it’s not just slips, trips, falls and the weather that can cause you grief in the mountains. Take care, bed-rest sucks! It’s also the reason that this report is so damn long.

Massive thanks to the following people for supporting our adventure:

Chris Swallow and Tom Middlemiss for graciously letting me join them on their run and sharing their vast knowledge. Without it, we would have lost a lot more than 10 minutes coming off Dundas.

Chris Martin for his advice, interest in our adventure and creating an amazing community around this stunning run.

Tony from Spot NZ for providing us with a tracker. It’s obviously of interest for people to follow the dot, but also was highly beneficial for Oli and I to know where the other boys were once we split.

Rob, my long suffering GP who I only visit after I’ve done something adventure related – you’re the man.

Robbie’s sisters Emily & Susan. Emily kindly did a 2am collection run to both sides of the ranges and Susan drove us back up to Putara at the end to collect vehicles.

The team for an amazing adventure. Looking forward to running with any or all of you in the Tararuas again.

Additional note from Oli

Rudi has done an excellent job of capturing the adventure from my perspective so I won’t re-tell or correct the parts where he has played down his role and abilities and oversold mine!!  

For me, achieving the challenge and experiencing the Tararuas was awesome.  However the banter and fun of being part of a team during the build up, the run itself and post run stands out as a highlight. Being part of a team not only motivated me to go from talking about it to committing but also made it possible to complete it.  There would be advantages of running it solo or as pair but I wouldn’t swap my experience for those.

My experience of the relentlessness of the SK environment means that my admiration for anyone that attempts the SK solo has gone to a whole new level.  To have the navigational skills, athletic ability and mental strength to go under 24hrs solo is seriously impressive. For those that may not possess a high level of all the above attributes I strongly believe that a 24hr SK is still possible by attempting it as a team.  This doesn’t mean that everyone and anyone will complete the SK as with the variables of navigation, weather and how a runner goes on the day, even the best may fall short on an attempt.

I do hope that Robbie and Tom go back as both would nail it.  On top of their undoubted abilities, Toms stubbornness and Robbie’s commitment to the team are two factors that would contribute to a sub 24hr run and I know I would be keen to be part of a team with them again.

As normal Rudi has left me in awe as a result of the exceptional job he did navigating in a trying conditions, while taking photos, keeping the pace ticking over and supporting the team. I wouldn’t have made it to the start line without Rudi’s commitment to being the navigator, and I wouldn’t have made it to the end without his pacing.  Without a doubt Rudi would be a sub 20 hr SK’er if he ever went solo and had the right conditions. At least running solo he could eat his snickers whenever he wanted!!

Lastly, I second my thanks to those mentioned by Rudi and would like to also thank a few others.   Sam and the kids for the ongoing support (and apologise for the stress following the dot caused). Jenny/Nat/Fiona/Tom for the accommodation.  Chris Martin for the encouragement. All those Taranaki runners that make my running enjoyable and interesting by coming on mini local adventures and the banter they provide.  Last but not least, Robbie, Tom and Rudi for the good times and I’m already planning the next adventures that involves road ends, dress shoes and a large can of peaches!!

In respect of food and fluid just times Rudi’s by three!!

 

[We’ll plan to update with an account of Robbie & Tom’s adventure from Maungahuka to Otaki Forks]

Splits

Point Split Cumulative Time

Herepai 59 00:59

East Peak 86 02:25

Dundas 144 04:49

Arete 64 05:53

Drac Biv 106 07:39

Nichols 107 09:26

Andersons 98 11:04

Aokap 114 12:58

Maungahuka 76 14:14

Kime 156 16:50

Alpha 130 19:00

Block XVI 80 20:20

Kaitoke 159 22:59

 

For reference:

Date: 04/01/2019 – 05/01/2019

Start time: 03:11

Sunrise (Daylight): 05:53

Sunset (Daylight): 20:57

Total Daylight: 15 hrs 04 mins

 

Fluids

Electrolyte Plain Water

Start: 500ml 1500ml

Herepai: 1000ml

Drac: 1000ml

Andersons: 1000ml

Maungahuka: 1000ml

Kime: 1000ml

Balance: 500ml

 

Total: 4000ml 2500ml = 6500ml

 

I use the Shotz electrolyte at double the normal concentration (2 tabs / 500ml = ~1800 mg sodium/L). I am a light drinker, so I expect the others would have had more than this.

Food

Breakfast: 1x banana

2x mini pita with Nutella

1x Clif bar

1x fruit pouch (aka baby food)

 

To Crawford: 9x Mother Earth Oaty Slices

3x Shotz Gels

1x mini pita with Nutella

2x Snickers.

= approximately 250 kcal/hr.

 

After Crawford: 4x Mother Earth Oaty Slices

3x Shotz Gels

4x Shotz Gels with Caffeine

1.5x Snickers.

Nothing between Crawford and Aokap and after that approximately 190 kcal/hr.

 

I had portioned out my food in 3hr blocks and packed them in ziplock bags. This method served me well as it was easy to quickly access the food from the main part of my pack and allowed me to roughly keep track of how many calories I’d put in. I was less diligent in the second half of the run, but this was less critical as I’d set myself up nicely.

I finished the run with a large amount of bars and gels left over. In addition to what’s listed above, I also took a fruit pouch (aka baby good) and some salami, both of which I didn’t eat. The plan for the fruit pouch was to have about halfway – to freshen up from my staple of bars and gels. Similarly, the salami was a last minute protein addition to satiate my appetite late in the day after getting jealous of Robbie’s dinner plans. On the run I didn’t feel like either and was quite happy munching on bars and gels all day and night.

Gear

Key pieces of gear worth mentioning were:

Montane Ultratour 22 pack – a bit too big for what I needed, but it also meant I didn’t have to completely unpack it to reach gear or food at the bottom.

Black Diamond Distance Carbon Z Poles – I actively used these the entire run, except for perhaps the last few km down the Marchant.

Suunto Ambit 2 – We had lots of watches between us, so the others had theirs on GPS settings to get them through the full 24hrs. We’d decided that I’d only activate the GPS on mine for navigational purposes and consequently had it on the highest accuracy settings. This worked well when we needed to double check breadcrumbs in the clag.

PLB – In addition to the Spot on Robbie, I carried a separate PLB – just in case we split into 2 groups! We also had 2 sets of maps & compasses and an extra Garmin eTrex (thankfully not required).

Salomon S-Lab Speed shoes – normally I’d run in Speedcross, however I wanted the narrower toebox and heel that the Speed offers for the more technical sections.

 

Quick weight breakdown of what was in my pack for context. Probably a bit on the heavy side compared to others – but I wouldn’t have not taken anything (except for the ~800g of food I didn’t eat!).

 

Pack & water receptacles: 770g

Spare clothing (max): 1350g

Nav/emergency accoutrements: 1100g

Food (max): 2200g

Water (max): 2500g

 

Total (max): 7920g

*When I started it was about 6700g as I had extra gear on and had only 2L of water.

Tom Middlemiss Main Range SK 2018

SK attempt – 0300 Sunday 23/12/18. Tom Middlemiss

 

‘If you know you will succeed it’s too easy’

We had history. Two years ago, I had tried and been defeated due to a mixture of bad weather, ‘alternative’ start time, under-fitness and not being 100% mentally committed; the latter being a critical component both for the training and on the day itself. ‘Turn right at Bridge Peak for shopping’ they say.  I’d turned right at Junction Knob. It was pretty deflating and there is still a lot of track between Junction Knob and Otaki Forks to contemplate what you are going to do with your time other than long mountain runs.

A year ago near Waitewaewae after descending down Junction Knob after a rough wet night a chance meeting a BSR party on way into Tararuas

Yet here I was. Fired up for another bash at it. The desire had never really gone away and I felt it was something I had to try and do – a monkey on my back. I love running from the Southern Cross on Tuesday nights and so many of those runners have successfully managed the main range SK (at least!). That was the company I wanted to put myself in and felt that it was within my capability.

I did quite a few things differently this time. On top of a good base fitness, I started focused training about 6 months out. Coming from the UK fell running scene, the best session of the week for me had been a hill interval session and I decided to start that here. I got Al Shelton and Simon Wills along for the first session and Thursday nights became the regular night. Usually accompanied by at least one other masochist, the session became something to grimly look forward to. If you are bending over, hands on knees, gasping for breath once a week it has got to be doing something good.

I would also highly recommend moving to a house with 70 steps to get to it, and then deciding to remove and re-lay the concrete path by hand. I was only the apprentice for the work, but I can’t thank my strength and conditioning coach Dave Eastgate enough for all the buckets of sand, gravel and top course he let me carry to the house. By the end, as well as having a shiny new path (thanks again Dave!) my very weedy upper body had expanded to now only quite weedy. It was good enough for me though and in my opinion upper body and core strength does make a big difference for the route.

Other than that, I stuck to the Bob Graham maxim that 3000m or 10,000ft of climbing per week was sufficient and the kilometres would take care of themselves. I built up my long runs while carrying approximately 7kg of weight and managed to get into the Tararuas a few times. A Southern Main Range loop in early December with Chris Swallow gave me good confidence that I was in the right condition.

Before describing the day itself, I want to mention my pre-attempt anxieties. Despite my training, and having some good results to show for it, in the two weeks before my rough attempt date I felt very flat, tired, lots of niggles and generally thinking I should push the date back a bit. But then, if you have started to taper, do you up the running load again and tail off again or keep tailing off? Are the niggles serious issues that will flare on the climb up to Herepai or just a bit of tightness? It is very hard to know and that is the difficulty with a challenge that has no specific date. With a race, you might just start and see how you go – usually because you have paid a lot of money to do it. With an SK attempt, it is all down to you and those you trust around you as to when to give the green light to go.

The end of December was the time in my mind – probably just after Christmas but possibly just before. My training schedule told me that before Christmas was on. Cue about seven days of persistent weather chart fixation. I had watched the fat high pressure areas sit over the whole of the lower North Island for the previous two weekends and for two previous successful attempts at under 24 hours. A third weekend of calm weather couldn’t be possible could it? (Spoiler alert: No)

Chris Swallow and Laurence Pidcock had both offered their support if I wanted it. Chris ‘Martini’ Martin was also available for all driving duties – a critical factor in an attempt. The topic of supported/unsupported/solo/pair etc is a good one while nursing a dram or a pint with others – something I had done myself on several occasions. Eventually, for me, I decided that the best times are the shared times and I took them up on the offer. I also felt that if I was struggling they would be a good back up to take a bit of weight from my shoulders.  Getting down the range in under 24 hours was a big challenge for me. Doing it and carrying all my own gear was right into my unknown capabilities. As it turned out, they were great company but didn’t need to carry any of my stuff.

The ‘Rig’ My Marathon Des Sables pack

On planned day of going up to Putara, I decided to postpone my attempt at least twice. Sound advice from experienced quarters and my own gut feeling was telling me to wait for better weather. Neither had reckoned for Chris Swallow’s persistence. We decided to go for it at lunch and by 4pm, myself Chris Swallow and Martini were heading up to Putara Base Camp. When we arrived, a sprightly looking chap was also staying there. Rudi Smith was over from New Plymouth to recce the Northern section for his own SK attempt.

Me Rudi and Swallow

An evening of packing, ‘lightly toasting’ 10 pittas and one green tea found me in my bed at 2100. The next five hours until the 0200 alarm didn’t involve much sleep at all due to excitement, nerves and the bright full moon. We had persuaded Rudi to bring forward his start time by two hours to come with us and it was a real pleasure to share the hills with him. Chris and I were able to show him a few pointers for when the weather is not good on the Northern section and his easy manner on top of a bedrock of formidable form and talent made him a great companion for six hours. I wish him and his group the very best for a super quick time.

The mandatory pre-start photo. I was only joking but anxiously looking skyward was actually quite pertinent for what was in store later on in the day.

The Northern section was a complete joy. The medium wind dropped and we were left with pin-sharp visibility. In these conditions the route to Arete is pretty benign with no challenge at all for following the trail. I’d highly recommend it! I felt strong, all niggles melted away and I was hitting my splits with comfort. I had jotted down the splits of Al Shelton and Lou Beckinsale as my guide for the day. I was determined to start well within myself and if I was a few minutes down on them I was confident I could pick it up later. For what it is worth, I am of the opinion that most people go out too hard for the first half and fade badly later on. I’ve always been a slow starter in races and wanted to keep that principle here too. I was using poles for most climbs and concentrated hard not to push myself at all for those first 6 hours.

Map not required. The Dundas ridge in full splendour.

Chris was his usual self of encouragement, chatter and all-round great company. We parted just after Pukematewai. Him off to Poads Rd – me off South for a bit longer. We hooted at each other along our respective ridges for a while. The track for me was really muddy and slow going. I got to Drac Biv 15 minutes behind Al and Lou and was a bit downbeat, however I pushed on after a quick water refuel and was back on splits for Nichols.

From about Dundas, the Southerly front that we knew was coming became more evident. Distant peaks started to get some clag on them and the clouds started forming above. After Nichols I stopped to put on my jacket and before long I also had on my gloves, thermal leggings and waterproof trousers. The clag was in and that was it for views for the rest of the day. The wind started to build and rain was intermittent. I’m not familiar with Crawford and it seemed to go on for a long time – with successive false crests. Throughout the day, you think you are going to be 15 minutes up on a split, only for that to come and go until you are pondering being down on a split – just one of the rollercoasters of the day. I got unexpectedly to Junction Knob and was happy to see a large rock on top of the sign. It meant Laurence had been past and I knew he would be waiting for me in Anderson’s Memorial hut. We’d agreed he would get there an hour before my split time – just in case of missing him. Suffice to say it was a pretty chilly hour for him! I stopped to pull on my fleece – all the clothes were on now – reload with water and we were off. 8 minutes. No hanging around.

Rather wet out there

The fist-pump of greeting. ‘We’re in this together for the next six hours’

 

For there until Kime was six hours of grind. It was windy, medium clag and patches of rain. The track is well formed for almost all of it, we knew it pretty well and in the patches that are a bit sketchy – such as the descent of Aokaparangi, there was always the visibility of one further waratah to keep us right. It was just a question of head down and get on with it. There was not much chance for chat and the weather worsened as we went on. However, cooler weather means you don’t need to drink as much – so a lighter pack and I also think you don’t get much time to think about being tired as you are just focused on getting through it. Despite that, I knew I was slowly getting colder.

We got to Kime inside my splits and my legs were still feeling really great. Bridge Peak had not been the fabled grind at all and I was fired up to keep going. There wasn’t much doubt I would carry on but I did need a bit of reassurance from Laurence that once I was in the bush line beyond Alpha the majority of serious weather threat was over. Two and half hours and the worst would be over.  Which was just as well. I was shivering as we combined our four fairly useless hands to get a bit more water and food into me and I was out of the door in about three minutes. Those steaming bowls of ready noodles from other trampers did look tempting. Laurence had been the perfect companion up there – such big thanks – but it was time to get on with the rest of it on my own.

Again, my legs did not let me down. I was at Mt Hector in 25 minutes and at Alpha in just under two hours. I stopped once to check I was on the right track and even in that short time I cooled down quickly.  I was fully aware that the weather and my condition in it was beyond marginal and any twisted ankle would have had pretty dire consequences. The wind blew strong and the clag did not let up. So, to see the bush line and soon after it, smell a fire at Alpha was a great delight. A couple with their teenage son from Hawkes Bay were more than a little surprised that a soaking, shivering, solo traveler was not stopping there at nine at night. But their offer of a hot cup of tea and a quick dry of my hat on the fire was a very welcome one for me. ‘Just five more hours’ I told myself on the way out of the door.

By this stage, I knew that getting under 24 hours was in the bag. Maybe I could even get under 23 hours? However, the motivation to push on was sucked out of me by the fabled Marchant ridge. I trudged and trudged through the mud and puddles. Having got through to Alpha in such bad weather, once I got to a point on the route where I could walk out and still make it in under 24 hours, I couldn’t really be bothered to do anything other than finish.  As for all others before me, it was tedious and way longer than I hoped.

Alpha to Kaitoke took 5 hours 17 minutes but so what! Chris Swallow had come up the track for a bit and we jogged/walked the last few kilometres. I’ve been at the car park for people finishing and I’ve come in with others. I knew that sound of having someone hooting from the car park and for me Martini was doing the honours. A great pleasure to hear it and see his head-torch. I came over the line in 23.19 and was delighted.  The training and prep had paid off and the monkey was off my back. The simple comforts of post run rolled in. All I had been thinking about for many hours was getting out of my wet clothes and soon I was dry . I happily accepted the combination of beer, watermelon, hot tea and whisky. Although tasty, the beer didn’t do wonders for my already cool core and I started to shiver pretty badly. The heat was cranked up in the car on my way home and I crept into the house at four AM. Christmas Eve morning never felt so good!

Best watermelon and beer combo I’ve had.

 

Huge thanks on the day to Chris Swallow, Laurence Pidcock and Martini. What a support crew. Thanks also to the Thursday night hill rep crew – get some of this into your life – you won’t look back. Pain shared is worse and better at the same time.   The wise men such as Tim Sutton and Dave Allen also deserve a mention for many chats over the years. And to my wife Rachel – for the support to allow me to get out there while she took the hit at home with family duties – Brownie points have been banked and are slowly being repaid.

I am really proud to be the 18^th person to successfully cover the SK main range in under 24 hours. I am also really proud to be only the third person to have done both the Bob Graham and the SK.  They are 24-hour challenges in hills and countries that I love with fables and history to go with them. We really are running along the paths of the greats before us. See you on the hills ya bas!

 

Herepai 1.10

East Peak 1.16

Dundas 2.16

Arete 53

Drac Biv 1.34

Nichols 1.35

Andersons 1.25

Aokap 1.46

Maungahuka 1.25

Kime 2.46

Alpha 1.58

Block XV1 2.02

Kaitoke 3.12

Total: 23.19

 

Andrew Martin/Fuzzy’s Main Range SK 16/12/2018

It all started back in June 2018.  I had just run my first Ultra the WUU2K in Wellington and was sitting at the batch in Hatepe resting my sore body and watching Tim Sutton’s Tippies for Timmy promotion that he was doing for “Chasing the Revenant.”I messaged Tim the next day.

A message led to a phone call.  A phone call led to another call.  Another call led to a question. I think it went along the lines of…. “How tough is a Main Range SK?”

Answer. “you can’t run the whole thing but if you walk where you have to and run where you can then you will make it.”  got off the phone and thought.  “I can do that.”Might also like to mention that he said “you have to get yourself very very fit.”

I would also like to say that even though this seemed very simple to me, this should not be taken lightly and anybody who has completed it deserves incredible respect. So six months later, a huge amount of effort running, HIIT, squash and any other exercise I could squeeze into my life I was standing at Mangatainoka road end.

I was in an interesting head space going into this mission.  My original plan was to start on Friday not Sunday and had gotten quite jittery as the day got closer.  Unfortunately the weather wasn’t going to play ball and it was off the table.  I felt quite deflated as a result.  Fortunately I was able to reorganise work and with the help and support of my lovely wife an d my support crew we were able reorganise a Sunday start.  This meant that I had to pick myself up again but even though I was excited and quite nervous, I was strangely more relaxed than I normally would be.

 

So there I was Pack on, poles in hand ready to go.  And off I went.My friend/support driver Mark and I ran together for the first part as he did a run to check out Roaring Stag hut.  We left each other at the turn off. 11.30am was the start time.  I decided on this with the help of Tim.  I am not a fast runner, a sold medium guy at best.  I liked this time as it meant that I would have plenty of daylight to navigating the Northern section    easier.  Night would come earlier and I wouldn’t be as fatigued to deal with it and then when I was relay starting to feel it, the new day would come and that would help me to get it done.  It seemed logical, well at least it did to me.

After leaving Mark at the turnoff the next hour, couple of hours, I don’t really know was pretty uneventful.  Herepai came and went. I only refilled one 500ml soft flask.  Navigating up towards East peak was straightforward.  Conditions couldn’t of been better.  High cloud but unlimited visibility so not to hot and 5-10knots of wind.  I then discovered that my fancy new watch had the GPX coordinates loaded into the map section.  Awesome, so just follow the arrow.

I did get the map out a couple of times just to make sure!

I had been warned about how easy it just to get lost up there and even though I had all these tools sometimes I felt like I was going in the wrong direction. I really wanted to make a good job of navigating the Northern section as to not waste energy and to do it well would be a massive mental boost.

I guess the next part of the adventure to share was heading up towards West Peak.  To be honest I started this mission with a bit of a blocked nose.  Nothing to serious but if their was anything going to stop me then that was it.  I was blowing hard, climbing was feeling very labored and I was feeling like it might be getting a bit more serious but I was underway now and Kaitoke was the finish! It was my first down moment.  I’d only just started.  Hadn’t even got onto Dundas Ridge and I’m already having one…. CRAP!!  I downed an E shot and immediately felt heaps better.

 

Up through Walker and Pukemoremore.  Going well, not so much climbing and I feel like I’m making good time.  Through Logan.  Right water starting to get low.  Where is that Tarn?  First mistake.  Tim had told me about it but I’d gone straight past it.  Id even looked at it and thought “I wouldn’t drink out of that.” Ha hindsight, not going back now.  Thankfully I found a puddle. Yes a puddle! shortly down the ridge.  I managed to fill my 2 soft flasks  but I wasn’t game enough to fill my bladder.  A couple of aqua tabs and some electrolytes in there.  Hands down the best tasting puddle in the park!  I started running again and of course I found some much better puddles shortly down the ridge but I kept going.

Going well.  Through Dundas and along the ridge up to Arete.  Quick wave at my friends that I said I would wave to.  Considered going to Arete hut for water, decided against.  Its all downhill to Drac right. One thing I’m a bit slow in learning is “there is nothing easy in a Main Range SK.”

Hit Te Aroroa Trail.  Bladder almost dry now.  I can’t eat much as hard to chew and mindful of digestion issues.  With these missions I need to eat consistently!  Keep going, still making good time.

Was beautiful up there as evening was setting in, just me and my thoughts thinking.  “Wow, here I am. Main Range SK.  I would never of thought that I would try and run the length of the Tararuas!”

Fluids starting to get very low.  Where is Drac Biv?  Can’t be much further, can’t eat anything.  Just keep going!  I drank the last of my fluid about five minutes before the hut!  Into Drac and what a relief.  Water, give me water.  But not to much mate but so thirsty.  This was the first proper rest since leaving.  Food, water, reload, got to get going, make most of the daylight!

Water and Barley Sugars are my friend.  Electrolytes aren’t working.

Coming up to my next tough spot.  Bit dehydrated still.  Still learning “there’s nothing easy in a Main Range SK.” Sharp ups and downs are taking there toll but working through it.  Just look where you are!  Look how far you’ve come!  Positive thoughts mate.

Starting to get dark now.  In and out of bush but its not quite headlamp time just yet.  What was that?  Just a Deer.  Keep going.  Feeling better now.  Food and water are working.

Past Nicholls and out to Mt Crawford.  Headlamp on now.  Junction Knob.  Ye Haa!!  Familiar territory.  What a lift!!!  Great running and into Andersons. Reload at Andersons.  Food.  Peanut Butter and Butter sandwiches are so dry despite more fillings than bread.  Eggs are ok.  Fill bladder again, I’ve drunken over 5L water since arriving at Drac.

Starting to get into the Southern Main Range proper now but going well.  Up to Aokaparangi.  Stargaze like I said.  Conditions are awesome.  Clear skies, light winds.  Been running in a short sleeve Icebreaker and a light vest..

It’s funny how much I didn’t remember from when I did the SMR two months ago.  Coming off Akap.  Man this is steep! Make sure of your feet!  Must be somewhere around 2am now.  Headlamp starting to dim, time to swap out.  Safety first! What a massive difference!  Took the opportunity to eat as I had to empty my pack.  The wind has also picked up, jacket on.  Time to get moving and keep warm.

Into Simpson or approaching (hard to tell in the dark).  There’s some grunty hills in here. I don’t remember that but still moving well.  Through Mangahuka, no stopping and into the Peaks.  Yip they as gnarly as I remember.  They not as scary because you can’t see how far you would fall.  Still moving well but definitely starting to feel it.  16-17 hours on the go now.

Getting through the SMR now but I’m mindful of the Bridge Peak climb.  Sweet, here we are, up we go.  No next down moment!  Climb up the hill to see the real Bridge Peak way way in the distance.  My feet are really starting to hurt now.  I feel like every stone in the Ranges is in my shoes and I can’t get them out!  There are no stones in my shoes!  Into the Bridge Peak climb now and really struggling.  Carry yourself man, you are using way more energy than you need to.

“There is nothing easy in a Main Range SK.”

Up up up and I’m there!  Left for Glory!  One more hill and into Kime.  Beauty!!

Was great to meet my friend Jonah at Kime.  This was prearranged as Jonah wanted to run the Southern Crossing and also be part of the SK mission.  Jonah was not there at Kime designed to be support and did not provide me with food, drink, supplies etc, but I would be lying if I didn’t say it wasn’t a massive boost to have a yarn with a good mate.  My objective was to be solo unsupported.  I previously had a conversation with him re this.  If I was battling he can just go.  But he’s the kind of guy who wouldn’t do that no matter how many times you told him.  Legend!

Fuel up and reload.  Clean out and wash shoes and socks.  Quick note, compression socks are very hard to take on and off so I didn’t.  What I would have given for a clean, fresh, dry pair of socks.  It probably wouldn’t of helped but…..

Out of Kime and heading up to Hector.  Feeling good but moving slowly.  At least I don’t feel like there’s sandpaper on my feet.  Quick photo at Hector and on we go.  It’s amazing how my perspective has changed in less than 12 months since doing the TMRace.  I used to think these hills were steep.  Its quite windy and I feel like I’m getting burnt but just want to keep going.  Slow and steady.  One foot in front of the other!

Into Alpha, last hut.  I’ve been checking them off.  More food.  Let’s get this done.  Dam my feet hurt.  Anyone who knows Marchant Ridge knows that it just keeps going and that’s what it did for me.  To many stops to mention.  Had parts where I was moving and then I’d have to stop again.  I just started saying to myself “ You can do this” over and over again.  I also knew that there were so many people to get it done.  I just had to fill myself up on that.  Just keep going.  I think it’s time to quote Tim Carpenter’s great piece of advice.  “Expect everything to take longer than you expect” and nothing was truer than Marchant that morning or was it afternoon.  It didn’t really matter and then it was done.  27 hours 40.  Kaitoke. You little beauty!!!  Mark is there waiting for us.  I’m so broken I can’t get my socks off.  He sorts it.  Thanks mate.  Next level!!

What next?  Local burger joint for a greasy cheeseburger (double cheese).

Guy at the burger joint says he has had a tough day because the eftpos was down.  Should I tell him?  He probably wouldn’t understand.  I decided against.  “Just give me my burger PLEASE!”

In summary, Main Range SK.  “There is nothing easy in a Main Range SK.”  Tough incredible mission.  Don’t undertake unless you are ready to handle a bit, no a lot of pain.  But as I sit here writing this with my feet in a salt ice bath two days after the mission, the good far  outweighs the bad and I have journeyed from one end of the Tararuas to the other.  We are all capable of much more than we know and we won’t know until we try.  I know I’m not the first person to write this but I really do believe not a truer word was written.

 

Andrew Martin.  Fuzzy.

 

 

 

 

Gear

North Face Ultra Endurance

Montane Dragon 20

LEKI Micro Variable Poles

LED Lenser

 

Fuel

13 Egg omelette with 250gms Bacon, Onion, Broccoli cooke in 3Tbsp Coconut Oil

1 Peanut butter/Butter Sandwich (bread is the vessel)

2 Packs Shot Blocks

4 E Shots

GU and Isagenix Electrolytes 3L worth

8+L Water

Barley Sugars, half pack probably.

Sam Grave SK Valley 2018

Report click

Marree Sandbrook SK Valleys Report 2018

Click link

Report

Caroline ONeil Sk Valley 2018

Amongst my haphazard kind of a training plan I decided it was time to give these valleys a shot. I had been interested ever since the conception of the Route and being a  mere mortal I figured it was the one SK I had a chance of completing.  I had attempted half of it a year ago and had covered most of the tracks, by doing various loops over the last couple of years, so it was just a matter of stringing them all together, right? I had managed to maintain my fitness since ROF in April and then with the delight of finishing the A100 without injury early November I was feeling pretty confident.. However the weather gods were not coming to the party and it looked like it was never, ever, going to stop raining in the Tararuas. Then there it was two days of fine weather on the horizon, and it was a weekend. What’s your luck! Maree who I had got to know recently through some previous events including the A100 was also keen to give it a crack! Once the date was set the logistics came together like clockwork and with the generosity of Roel and his Wagon wheels we were off on our journey with Al & Dave the A team, Maree and I the B team along with our very own Guardian of the Trails “Seanoa”

                               Photo credit – Roel V                Off to Putara

 

After a pretty decent few hours sleep, snug as a bug at Putara Base Camp we woke to a clear, surprisingly mild morning. With the traditional photo shot over with at the DOC sign we headed into the enchanted forest at 3.30am.

Photo credit – Roel V            We’re going on an adventure

 

I always enjoy starting out in the dark, it seems to add an element of wonder.

My body takes about an hour to really warm into the moment so with no real rhythm and a lot of huffing and puffing the first climb was somehow adventually behind us and we settled into the downhill. By the time we reached Roaring Stag the birds were out of bed and the daylight was upon us ready for the river travel. Perfect timing.

The Ruamahanga River Ramblers

Photo Credit – Seanoa I

The A Team, Dave & Al soon caught us up in the river section and they disappeared around the corner as quickly as they had appeared both in great spirits enjoying the stunning river valley in the early morning light as well.

Although the water was beautiful and crystal clear it still had a little punch of strength and depth at times. In a couple of places when I found myself struggling to keep my feet on the bottom the Guardian of the Deep would grab me by the scruff of the neck and toss me to the safety of the riverbank (in the nicest way possible of course) 🙂

   The Guardian of the Deep

I was so thankful to have both Maree and Rambo by my side for this stage. My hat goes off to those who choose to do this Solo you are all truly incredible people. After a short compulsory swim for us all, it was nice to see the sun on the hilltops promising a warm day ahead. After leaving the river we scrambled our way up what seemed to be the steepest exit we could possibly find to join the track to Cow Creek Saddle. We happily kept moving after a very brief break hoping to keep warm and dry off as we moved along. As I tripped and slid on everything I could possibly find to slip and trip on, I decided rather than curse, to laugh at my own clumsiness and resign to the fact it was just going to be one of those days. Strangely after this was established in my mind I don’t remember many more incidents happening.

 

Smoko at Cow Creek Hut

After a quick snack and smoko stop at the Hut we hit the track towards our next milestone Mitre Flats. This section was interspersed with gurgling white foaming streams which were a pleasure to witness in contrast to the muddy bogs and roots. The tree fall was surprisingly minimal and we reached Mitre Flats without too much mishap well apart from the dreaded Slippery Plank! After hearing a heavy thud out front and a mutter of words, Seanoa, once composed again, kindly pointed it out to us. (Luckily no harm done) The funny thing was he had been looking out for it but it had snuck up on him anyway Lol 🙂

Seanoa making it look easy

Reaching Mitre Flats Hut I felt we were chipping away quite nicely at our mission. The sun was lovely and warm now and we sat and ate some of our culinary delights and refilled our water bottles in readiness for the next slog up and over to Baldy Junction.  Sometime into the climb I became aware that I didn’t quite feel right. My legs became extremely heavy and sore from top to bottom and my head was feeling pretty spaced out. I pulled out a Pure gel containing caffeine and guzzled down a lot of electrolyte. After cooling my head off with water from the next couple of creeks I started to feel much better. Maree experienced a dizzy spell too further along this stretch and with a brief lie down and a sugar hit she was soon up and away again. Both of these incidents point out how you need to be prepared to listen to your body and have some knowledge on what it maybe needing to balance things out again.

 

      Atiwhakatu Hut

I was pretty stoked to finally get to Atiwhakatu Hut as Maree and I had earlier agreed to have a decent rest here. It felt like heaven lying on the bench seat in the sun. But then our sub-conscience came into play and told us not to fall asleep and to get up, oh no that’s right, it was the Guardian of the Land of Nod “ Seanoa” reminding us we had somewhere to be! Feeling quite refreshed we saddled up and trotted off down the highway. It was really good to be running on a groomed track and I was enjoying the familiarity of my home turf. I was looking forward to getting up River Ridge and beyond feeling like we had broken the Valleys back. Approaching one of the many bridges along this section we were greeted by an extremely enthusiastic Chris Martin bearing gifts of coke and chippees.

Party Time

Photo credit -Chris M

At the junction to River Ridge we said our goodbyes to our Guardian Angel Seanoa who was heading out via Holdsworth now that his Caromaree Mission had been completed.

Chris joined us up River Ridge and we learnt of his morning drama and how the steering on Max’s car had gone on their way over the Rimatuka Hill and how Chris had hitched a ride back to the Hutt, got the train home to get his own car and then drive back over in the hope to catch up with us. Such a massive effort. The coke & chips were very much appreciated, cheers Martini.

 

Pigs Flat

Photo credit -Chris M

After arriving at Pigs Flat it was time to check in with family and advise that thunderbirds were all go! A quick goodbye to Chris at the Junction and we were soon weaving our way down towards Totara Flats. After the downhill, the track is pretty and soft underfoot and this section went relatively fast arriving at Totara Flats Hut around 5pm just in time for dinner and drinks. Well a sausage and some replace.

After spending a little time here with legs up the wall, rejuvenating the blood supply to the feet we willingly set off again hoping to tackle Cone Saddle in the light of day. The trip across the grassy flats was a lovely change of scenery.

Totara Flats

It was that pleasant time of day when things had cooled down a little. We made great progress along this stretch reaching the Waiohine/Cone junction in good time. I apologise for my lack of splits and finer details in this report but I tend not to dwell on how fast I’m going but concentrate on the next milestone ahead, that way the pressure comes off, allowing time to enjoy the moments and not overstraining the body. With the hope of getting to Cone Hut before dark we plodded on up to the Saddle. With daylight dimming the birds became more silent and the shadows more prominent. As usual in the Tararuas everything takes a little bit longer than expected but we reached Cone Hut right before dark at 8.55pm. I remember this time precisely as we had a laugh about being 5 minutes up on Maree’s prediction.

Cone Hut

With head torches adorned and another layer of clothing we set off for the Valley of Tauherenikau and the homeward straight. It was peaceful along the track apart from the occasional Morepork calling in the distance. The night air was still and the sky was becoming pin pricked with bright stars. Along this stretch Maree got a glimpse of a hind but it had skipped away before I got to see it. I was very thankful to have Maree up front navigating at this stage. The track was very familiar to Maree but even so we would momentarily lose it as it took some random turn. I must admit I had been blasé about this section thinking it would be a piece of cake but in the shroud of the darkness the trail criss-crossed between the creeks and grasses creating a labyrinth of different paths. At one stage I pfaffed around for ages trying to find where I had put my spare batteries for my torch. My brain was struggling to stay alert and I applaud you Maree for your patience. About 40 minutes from the Tutuwai Sign we came across a couple laying at the side of the track in sleeping bags. They explained they were travelling with a young child and the hut had been too far away so they decided to dos down there. Luckily for them the night was dry and mild.

We marched on mainly in silence as weiriness started to creep in willing the legs to move faster. Then in the distance we saw a couple of headlamps. Hallelujah!! It was AJ & Max they had come in to escort us out to the end. This was a great boost to the energy levels and we continued on, chatting about each other’s day trials & tribulations with a renewed spring in the step (well at least it felt like it) After sometime we finally made it to the bridge and behold there was another person! It turned out to be my husband Brady who was still a little hungover from his work Christmas Party the night before. He had been lying down on the bridge waiting for us Lol 🙂 He came armed with a flask of tea which was like liquid gold to the lips and muchly appreciated. After a quick guzzle we resumed our positions and continued the march towards the infamous Puffer.  We witnessed an amazing sized Puriri moth which seemed reluctant to leave us and our torch lights.

Puriri Moth (not actual)

Eventually the Puffer was upon us. To quote Maree “let’s make the most of the last climb of the day”. So with that attitude we gritted our teeth and embraced each upward step trying not to slip and slide on the greasy clay trenches.

With a glimpse of some lights down in the distance it was now a reality that this adventure was going to come to an end in the near future.

The carpark sneaked up on me without realising. Wow, we had done it 21 hours and 54 minutes later, we could now stop.

                                                      The T-Shirt                

                                                                  

                                                                  Team Caromaree

 

 

 

A huge “Thank You” to our support crew

Tim Pickering Main Range SK 2018

Standing at any start line it’s best not to look at the stats. Especially on the SK. Even with a good build up over the last couple of years it seemed like a very daunting task. With a goal of sub 24 hours with elevation of 6500-7000 meters over 75-80km it was going to be a long day. But I was so looking forward to it and was keen to get going especially with the great weather forecast. I had put in a good few training blocks consisting of running (stoked to get my max week of 88km), mountain biking, heavy pack walking, cycling, gym and rowing. I knew I was ready to give the SK an attempt so at 2am I was out of the tent and on my way.

It all started with doing my first ultra (50km Tarawera) two years ago and getting hooked. I set out exploring my backyard on foot with my favorite of Up Down Around Mount Taranaki and around Mount Ruapehu. Dad had talked about the SK 6 years ago while we were tramping the Te Araroa Tararuas part. I never thought I’d be doing it! I got in contact with Tim Sutton and the adventure went from a dream to a must!

Starting out I got into a rhythm of eating every hour, drinking whenever I thought about it and going at a pace that I could sustain for ages. Once I had warmed up it was time to relax and enjoy every moment. 24hours seems like a long time but since it was a long time goal I was keen to savior every moment as it’d soon be over.

I love running in the dark, lucky as it would be a while before sunrise. Up to Herepai it was smooth sailing then I took a well-worn path that ended up costing me 16mins! Dumb arse – think I took what must be a view point in the daylight and kept going down a step face before I thought oh oh I’m off the path. With a ripped flap of skin on my thumb (kept my gloves on for the rest of the day as they worked out being a great bandage) I back tracked and was back on track. Every SK adventure seems to have a navigation issue and with mine so early on I didn’t really want another but then came East peak. I went a little too far past the metal waratah and found myself off the path yet again. I ended up crowd surfing over leatherwood, not the funnist activity but it got me back on track. Lucky those 25mins were my only navigation problems for the day.

Then it was onto the beautiful un-marked route off the Northern Main Range. I loved this part, moving as fast as possible over the rocks and vegetation and going up and down countless hills. With not a breath of wind or barely a cloud in the sky in was simply stunning with an amazing sunrise, views of Ruapehu and the sight of the full main range in front of me. Mount Dundas came and went with no problems, I can definitely see how it’s easy to lose ones’ way here in bad weather. From Pukematewai to the forest I really had to concentrate as it was super muddy.

Once in the Goblin Forest I came up with a mantra ‘seconds makes a minute, minutes makes an hour’. So every time (even if only a few meters) I would run anything that was possible to save me time in the long run. Even at the huts I never stayed longer than 2-3 mins.

Once I got to Junction Knob it was all new territory for me. I had read that Anderson Memorial hut was half way (was that in time or distance, I didn’t know). For the first time I got my map out with splits and realised I’d made great time. Was happy as to have some time up my sleeves. My plan to Maungahuka Hut was to drink heaps and fuel up for the big climbs up to Bridge Peak. But I never realised how steep the hills were in this section. Going up was fine but going down for me was slow going as my Rotorua training is so flat in comparison. But I loved exploring a new route, the views were amazing and I met a BSR crew member and someone had left me a note (how cool!). About now I realised getting a number 4 haircut wasn’t a good idea as my scalp was getting burnt – but gladly, at least a light westerly had developed to keep the heat manageable.

So up down up down all the way to Kime Hut. At this point I was still feeling ok (relatively speaking). It was definitely left for glory. I actually couldn’t go right to Otaki Forks (bail out option) as that would mean a massive drive for my lovely lady and our 1-year-old, so off to Kaitoke it was. Man it’s a big circle from mount Hector to Alpha Hut! I had a bit of a down moment here thinking how far I still had to go, I was really looking forward to getting back in the forest.

On Marchant Ridge I made some great progress on the hills and flats but I was really struggling going down with sore thighs and good blisters. Oh well though just gota keep moving. I had my first sit down on the track for a brief feed then I was like come on just get up and go. So that’s what I did. At end of long runs minutes start to go past like hours used to at the start. But then I past the Puffer Track and realised I was going to achieve my goal. Was stoked as hearing Hester yelling out at the car park. With a smelly hug it was done in 22hrs7mins Solo Unassisted – I was stoked with my longest, steepest most technical run to date.

Thanks so much to Hester and Finn for listening to me talk a lot about the SK. My family for supporting me (am really happy doing this as it was Dad’s tramping ground for 5 years). Tim Sutton for the chats, insights, weather forecaster and great guy. All the BSR crew for all the great messages of support. Chris Martin for all is work and enthusiasm on the SK.

Till next time ( can’t believe I’ve already read a Tarn SK report only 2 days after completing the Main Range!).

Weight 2 days after – 85.1kg

 

 

 

Gear

• Osprey Duro 15 pack
• Dry bag:(2 long sleeve thermals, long medium merino, long thermal pants, merino socks)
• Plastic bag: (Thermal gloves, wind proof gloves, merino balaclava)
• Ultimate Direction ultra-pants and jacket
• Running clothes and hat
• 5-liter bladder .5-liter shoulder strap bladder
• SOL survival bag + first aid
• Map and compass
• iPhone 7 (ViewRanger on airplane mode)
• Black Diamond distance carbon z poles
• Nitecore HC65 head torch with 2 spare battery’s
• Spot tracker
• Salomon Slab sense 7 Shoes
• Moxie Gaiters

 

Food

• 10liters total water drunk during the day
• 5 cliff bars – (ate 4)
• 5 chocolate bars – (ate 5)
• 26 SIS gels – (ate 26)
• 6 Beer sticks – (ate 4)
• 46 GU Roctane electrolyte capsules – (ate 42)
• Ate 4 caffeine capsules

 

	Total Time	Time Between Points
Putara Road End	0000	0000
Herepai Hut	59mins	59mins
East Peak	2hrs14mins	75mins
Mt Dundas	4hrs15mins	121mins
Arete	5hrs6mins	51mins
Drac Biv	6hrs30mins	84mins
Nichols	8hrs10mins	100mins
Anderson Memorial Hut	9hrs35mins	85mins
Aokaparangi	11hrs6mins	91mins
Maungahuka Hut	12hrs29mins	83mins
Kime Hut	15hrs9mins	160mins
Alpha Hut	17hrs20mins	131mins
Block XV1	18hrs45mins	85mins
Kaitoke	22hrs7mins	202mins

 
STRAVA LINK